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Thread: Jay-gon Jinn's Brass Saber 25 (Petit Crouton, Li-Ion, 1 1/4" sink tube ,RGB purple)

  1. #11

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    Looking good! I like the use of MHS on the outside. Does it feel slimmer over all in the hand?
    "I sense great fear in you Skywalker! You have hate, you have anger; but you don't use them."

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    Nice! Although I think it looks a bit bare without an overlay..lol JK. With the large sections cut out of the body how sturdy of a build is it? I'm guessing the underlay will add some strength if it's full length. I like what you did with the emitter although I'm curious to see how the seam worked out.
    The seam is right here:

    It's not too noticeable, but it's there.

    Quote Originally Posted by Elodin View Post
    Looking good! I like the use of MHS on the outside. Does it feel slimmer over all in the hand?
    Yes, it does feel a bit slimmer in the hand than it would if I had used a sleeve over it.

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  3. #13

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    Hey not bad. The metallic reflection hides the line a bit.

  4. #14

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    I did some more work to this saber yesterday. I assembled one of the new TCSS led modules with the led. If you haven't used one yet, here's how they go together:



    This is how it comes from TCSS...assembled.

    The heatsink unscrews:


    I mounted the led using a heat transfer adhesive pad and added a QD plug:



    The wires fit perfectly into the channels in the side of the heatsink.

    I added the lens and screwed the heatsink into the housing:




    Finished:

    These will make swapping out led's for a different color blade much easier because now you don't have to worry about having the lens fit the holder, aligning the holder and lens correctly on the led, etc. This saber will be getting used for costuming purposes, and it's the owner's first lightsaber, so the simpler it is, the better.

    Back to the work on the hilt, I also managed to get that other slot finished. I started again by drilling two holes:

    Then "slotted" them using the cutting disc on my Dremel. Then after a little "quality time" with a file, and I had a fairly straight slot:




    I then sanded and polished the edges of the slot and re-assembled the hilt to check it out:

    Not bad....it's bit smaller than the forward slot, but that's okay:


    With the rest of the hilt:


    With that done, all of the machine type work on the parts is pretty much finished, so I took it apart again to get ready for some final sanding and polishing before final assembly:

    I'm thinking I may want to try and clear coat these before assembly, just so the shine can be protected....the polished aluminum MHS parts are very easily scratched right now, and I think a coat of baked -on clear enamel might help with that.

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  5. #15

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    Jay-gon,

    Your explanation on how the new LED/Heatsink go together is exactly what I've been looking for! You are amazing, as usual, but you just scored extra-credit with me... I dunno if anyone else appreciate's this, but at least you made a difference for one!

    Thanks!


    Remember, your LED will ALWAYS look brighter in pics and vids... If you're not playing with it at night, it's not gonna impress you...

  6. #16
    Force Aware hebert466's Avatar
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    you have just givin me alot of ideas for my next saber...thanks! oh, and by the way...it looks GREAT!!!
    "Do or do not....there is no try" - Yoda

  7. #17

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    Wow, nice work. I think thats along the lines I was going. I am posting a couple of updated pics of my saber in my build thread. Similar to yours Jay, only not nearly as nice looking. Again great work.

  8. #18

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    Update on this saber's constructionn.

    I made the soundboard cradle for this one a few weeks ago, and here's how it turned out:




    This will need to b secured to the hilt somehow, so I drilled and tapped the chassis disc for 6-32 threads. This will line up with the forward mounting screw for the switch box:


    The finished cradle/mount:


    The soundboard will mount to it like this:


    Then today, I clear coated and baked the MHS parts:


    While they were baking, I worked on the wiring and added the wires to the board:


    With all of the wires attached to the board, I began to assemble the saber by running the wires for the speaker and battery pack through the hilt sleeve:



    I can do this while the rest of the parts are baking in the over, because I already clear coated the inner sleeve.

    With the wires all threaded through the hilt and the chassis disc, I soldered the speaker wires to the soundboard:


    I slid it all into the hilt and lined up the mounting holes:



    The mounting screw fits perfectly in the chassis disc:


    After I finished this, I decided to go and check on the parts, and found out that you really shouldn't bake parts that have been adhered together with epoxy:

    I'll have to re-epoxy this and simply clear coat the emitter the old fashioned way.

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  9. #19

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    Awesome! Very clean setup there, and you just helped me solve some wiring issues that I've been having with that board mounting idea. So thanks. That baked epoxy incident is also very helpful.

    It's looking great Jay. I'm sure the customer will be one happy person, especially since it's their first saber. Great intro for them into the world of sabers.

  10. #20

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    Okay, after three hours in the oven this afternoon, the parts were dry, so I began assembly:


    I wired up the switches and the recharge port:


    Then assembled the switch box to the hilt, making sure to aign the soundboard mount with the front mounting hole so the screw would thread into it:


    Then got ready to install some batteries:

    Got them in, and found that I had glued the speaker to low on the battery holder for the battery pack to fit into the saber properly so had to spend a half an hour re-doing the battery pack and speaker assembly.

    I did that and also re-epoxied the brass piece on the emitter, and also loaded up the SD card with Madcow's "Bespin II" font then assembled the emitter and led assembly to the saber:

    I had to make a change to the led's resistor to tweak the color, and then reassembled it and tested:




    Full blade shot:

    I think that'll do!

    I'll still have some clean-up n the blade holder to do, and I have yet to actually make the blade for this one as that is the one I have been using in CS-X lately, and then I can get some final beauty shots taken hopefully on monday, along with a video.

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