With the correct power solution you can just tie all the LED circuits together and not have to use the PNP transistor. I would recommend using 4 AA for this solution. You will get the most power output from them.
With the correct power solution you can just tie all the LED circuits together and not have to use the PNP transistor. I would recommend using 4 AA for this solution. You will get the most power output from them.
Well... I already purchased two Li-Ion 3.7V 18650 2600mAh batteries (w/PCB) - one for each of my two sabers I'm getting ready to build. I'm guessing these will also work without using the PNP transistor then, I just won't get as bright of a blade or as long of a run time, right? Since I'm wiring both up with a recharge port and I'll only be using them to play with my kids, I'm not so concerned with run time. But how less bright will the blade be vs. the 4 AA Ni-MH solution?
Also, I'll still need the resistor between the board and the LED, right?
You should still get good results with the 18650 Li-Ion.
Sweet! Thanks Rhyen! On another thread you replied that there was a tutorial somewhere with these new boards. I've been scouring this place and the only thing I can find is your threads/pics/video. Was the tutorial on this forum?
Ok, I just finished swapping out all the wires and adding the clash sensor (which was mounted on the blade of the toy) to the 2011 Ultimate FX board . I'm now to the point of swapping out the swing sensor. Looking at the pictures I've added, you'll see there are what seem to be 2 swing sensor mounting locations, one for the Vader saber and one for the Anakin saber. This card was from the Anakin so the Vader is empty. I was going to try intalling 2 swing sensors perpendicular to each other on a strip board and wire that to the soundboard (as suggested by Skottsaber for the 2010 Obi-wan econo board), but it seems you might be able to just mount one to the Vader side and one to the Anakin side. I'm admittedly a noob when it comes to sabers and circuitry, but it seems like it's at least a possibility. Anyone more experienced care to chime in?
Also, I noticed that there are 3 holes, but only 2 wires one the swing sensor from TCSS. How would one even wire in the TCSS swing sensor? I've labeled them 1, 2 & 3 so someone can easily just tell us which ones would go where.
Ultimate FX Board-Side 1.jpgUltimate FX Board-Side 2.jpg
Last edited by jvidamins; 12-11-2011 at 08:37 PM.
****UPDATE - disregard this entire post!!!!! I've fried two of these boards and, though im still trying to figure out why, im thinking it migh have been wiring both swing sensors. However, I just bought my third and it has a completely different board in it, which I'll post about later, so none of this will matter anyway. It only has on place for a swing sensor.
To anyone who may be following this... after some testing, I've answered my own questions. What I found was that you can indeed use both the Vader and Anakin swing sensor sides simultaneously!!! Also, the #'s 1 and 3 holes are on the same trace, so you only need to use one of them. The other leg of the swing sensor goes in the # 2 hole. I'm going to mount the swing sensors on the opposite side the stock one was mounted on so I can keep the one side of the board flat and mount it on top of my single cell 1865 li-ion battery, which should fit very nicely in my 1 1/4" sink tube hilt. It looks like the orientation to make them is Anakin=parallel to long side of board and Vader=perpendicular to long side of board. I'll post pictures when I have them mounted up.
Ok, here's how it turned out:
Mounted Swing Sensors.jpg
Last edited by jvidamins; 12-30-2011 at 12:33 PM.
Thank you that you have Postet these Pics. Now i know much more and know how to get it in my Self made Saber ^^ thanks Jvidamins
Ultimate FX Board-Side 4.jpg
But maybe you can say me what the marked ones in the Picture are?
The rest i know from the Video and your Pics.
Thanks Sascha
The wires you have labeled "Power +/-" are the speaker wires. The ones you labeled "Speaker" are in fact the switch wires. The "What is that?" at the lower left hand corner is the Battery - (notice the B- on the board). Lastly, the other "And what is that?" at the top middle is the Battery +. Hope that helps.Originally Posted by cleanermc
Before anyone follows my wiring instructions, you'd better read about the problems I'm having after I plugged in my Tenergy Li-Ion charger... you can find it here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...492#post206492
Haven't figured out why my swing and clash sounds have stopped. Will let you know when I do.
OK so i am buying a staff from Ultrasaber and was thinking of getting a pair of hasbro sabers to rape for the sound and other features. even if i buy 2 new ones thats only 60 bucks vs 90 for 1 of their obsideon sound boards muck less two. my questions would be can i fit the sound system/electronics in their MHS hilts and how hard would it be to incorporate the hasbro electronics in with their stuff. Asked them and of course they said they wouldn't work but with 180 or better riding on the answer I'm inclined to be skeptical. I'm fairly good with electronics although lately either my soldering iron or me has been working poorly so might have a buddy do my soldering but still want some guidance
thank you for your time
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