New Ultimate FX vs standard Hasbro sound comparison...

[pezzer75]

I could be wrong, because I don't have one to test my theory with, but it looks like the essentially the same set up, you would connect 1 though 5 for negative and VSS would be your positive. I would verify with a multimeter to be sure before wiring up a led to it. A and B would be the clash sensor.
As for bridging on board, or bundling the wires together, its really personal preference. To me on board looks cleaner and less clutter to deal with.

[theblackcomet]

Well, this is my first time writing in the forum and I think I can help Knight_Stgar a little with the new board. I am basing my findings off of the old board as it is very similar in regards to wiring. I have not tested the new boards, but I believe that my assumptions are correct. As for the end that originally attached to the blade/led ladder, the 1,2,3,4,5 should be the corresponding led circuits that were seen in the older boards and treated as "+" The VSS should be treated as negative. The A and B should be the for the clash sensor. Therefore, you would need to make a pretty crazy looking solder bridge, or any type of bridge really between the 1,2,3,4,5 and use the diagram posted earlier with the exception of the charging port. I am still wary about using one with this board and will stick with AA or AAA batteries until I can really test out the ultimate FX boards. I hope this helps, as I am currently working on my own ultimate FX board(the older one)

[mrknify]

i just got the new vader one, the main board is now attached to the leds with the clash sensor mounted to the led pcd, not the main board, but the led (as previously said) is mounted directly to the main board, i will be making a "video" of it dissassembled and you tube it (themrknify) i am a novice when it comes to electronics, but i enderstand all the principles (and don't have a multimeter.) I'm up for wiring assistance, but i will attempt all on my own and hopefully make "walkthrough" of my success or folly.

so this is my middle of reading this topic post... lol back to reading. (bought the saber 2 weeks ago on sale at toys"r"us in Edmonton.

The blade is a little short and it is a decent brightness in normal mode (not demo mode) but the LEDs are spaced out too far and you can see the gaps in between the LEDs. Here are some pics of the hilt and board.

BTW - These take 3 AA batteries, not AAA batteries (at least the Vader one does) and it is NOT the same board as the 2010 econo but it does have the same sounds as the 2010 econo. If you put this in a custom saber be sure to wire the demo/normal switch in the normal mode, not demo mode.

[mrknify]

ok updated my boring speach with pictures on tube-you... http://youtu.be/cfYzl158of4

[DemonBunnyman]

need more close ups on the wiring i have one of these boards and plan to wire this weekend.

[mrknify]

Ok, I just finished swapping out all the wires and adding the clash sensor (which was mounted on the blade of the toy) to the 2011 Ultimate FX board . I'm now to the point of swapping out the swing sensor. Looking at the pictures I've added, you'll see there are what seem to be 2 swing sensor mounting locations, one for the Vader saber and one for the Anakin saber. This card was from the Anakin so the Vader is empty. I was going to try intalling 2 swing sensors perpendicular to each other on a strip board and wire that to the soundboard (as suggested by Skottsaber for the 2010 Obi-wan econo board), but it seems you might be able to just mount one to the Vader side and one to the Anakin side. I'm admittedly a noob when it comes to sabers and circuitry, but it seems like it's at least a possibility. Anyone more experienced care to chime in?

Also, I noticed that there are 3 holes, but only 2 wires one the swing sensor from TCSS. How would one even wire in the TCSS swing sensor? I've labeled them 1, 2 & 3 so someone can easily just tell us which ones would go where.

Attachment 6246Attachment 6247

ok its a mirror, looks like they attach the swing to either side yo get vader or ani, swings setup as its the same pattern for their sensor.

as for the tcss sensor, not sure if its clash or swing mut one i have has 3 leads on it.

[mrknify]

I posted this in one of my own threads, but thought it should definitely be here, since this seems to be the best "Ultimate FX" thread. I think Hasbro just changed the boards in these sabers. I bought a Vader version about a week ago, and then another just 2 days ago. The one I bought 2 days ago is completely different than the previous 2 I purchased. Here are a couple pics showing the difference between the two:

(Old board on top, new on bottom)
Attachment 6278 Attachment 6279

It's much narrower than the old one, but I'm not sure how we'd wire up the LED wires since there are no holes to solder wires into. I think I'm going to take this back and try to find one of the older ones. Has anyone used one of the newer ones yet?

yes i've been working on this (im going through old posts) i'm looking for the switch bypass (demo mode sucks) i've got a nice pic with my saber pics of the board removed from the blade, and pins attached to the end, the blade spot i found it easy to just solder on the wires, but rith now i'm looking into mounting a clip on it for testing.

[mrknify]

hasbro2010b.jpg

I had the same board, I have all the information on it as best as i could do, you should be able to wire it up the same as the other econo boards, led's speakers, battery, pnp, momentary.

hope this helps.