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Thread: MHS Sleeve Vs Sink tube.

  1. #1

    Default MHS Sleeve Vs Sink tube.

    I've been thinking about the chrome sink tube for a shroud on my saber design for a while - I think the shinny-ness will work well in contrast with a black powder coat. BUT would I be better off using MHS Sleeve material? It looks to have a tighter fit, but the extra thickness might be a bit much, as I'm planning cut-away sections over a ribbed extension. Im worried it would feel overly chunky in the hand. It also seems to be less shiny than some of the other parts, (though that could just be the picture).

    I'd love to here thoughts on which is better/most sutable for the job.

    Elodin
    "I sense great fear in you Skywalker! You have hate, you have anger; but you don't use them."

  2. #2

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    Both sinktube and sleeve material will fit perfectly well over MHS parts. I have heard that the newer sleeve material is far more polished than the pictures show, but it's not terribly difficult to polish it up at any rate. (Just time consuming)

    Two things to keep in mind about sinktube:
    1. If you have an open style shroud that doesn't completely wrap around the hilt, it tends to expand a bit and not fit as snugly. This can be good or bad, depending on paint/powdercoating underneath.
    2. Sinktube is brass. You will end up with brass showing on the cut edges of the sinktube shroud. This may or may not be a bad thing, depending on your design.

    If you want to have MHS sleeve material over a powdercoated MHS piece, you will want to let Tim know beforehand so he can turn the diameter down a bit first to allow the sleeve to fit. Powdercoating adds a small but noticeable increase to the diameter of your parts.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    where is the sleeve material in the store? I've looked through the MHS area is that what its called?

    Never mind found it in misc area... whats the difference between MHS sleeve and MHS Sleeve Material



    Also what is a tonfa? - Never mind googled it!
    Last edited by Natesroom; 07-26-2011 at 11:35 AM.

  4. #4

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    MHS Sleeve 1 has grooves machined in it like the Mara Jade style grip. It slips over existing MHS pieces rather than screw into them. The MHS Sleeve Material is plain and it's up to you to add awesome to it.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5
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    Default

    Here are my experiences with the two...

    MHS Sleeve material;
    - gives a solid overlay feel, the ridge is much more pronounced than a sinktube shroud
    - Is eaiser to paint
    - Is more forgiving
    - Is tougher to work with (walls are thicker)
    - is tappable

    Sinktube shroud
    - comes already with a polished chrome look
    - is quite thin
    - Is easy to work with, but easier to mess up
    - Has a "spring" effect where if you cut the tube in half it will pop apart...
    - is extremely hard to glue things to...
    - can barely tap the tube
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  6. #6

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    Personally I think the sleeve material is a much better choice. The only reason I ever use the sinktube is when I want to sand the chrome off and use a brass tube. The sleeve material is really easy to polish if you use Master Jedye's sanding technique. I've gotten a nearly mirror shine on aluminum that way.

  7. #7

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    Is that the technique of sticking a plug on the end of a drill and then sticking the sleeve over that and wrapping sandpaper around it the turning it on?

    I didn't see that post in my perusal of the boards. I think i saw that on FX

  8. #8

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    Yes, that's the technique. It was originally posted over on FX and then LM asked Jedye to bring it over here. Jedye doesn't have many posts, so if you can't find it by searching just check his user profile and look at the threads he has started. It's a tutorial for dremelling sinktubes.

    By the way, I've never been able to find the plugs he used. I ended up using large rubber sanding drums instead.

  9. #9

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    One thing I like about the two is the difference in wall thickness can help to provide more variation in your hilt's OD. Personally I prefer the sleeve material since it stands out more due to it's thick wall. Oh and the fact it's aluminum like MHS works well too.

  10. #10

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    Also, I found getting a real shine on the MHS parts (and sleeve material) were very time consuming,(no news there) used 1300 wet and dry paper then a cloth with Silvo (silver polish, or whatever brand you prefer). It took literally hours. Finally ordered some 2500 wet and dry, then only needed to polish with Silvo for around 10 minutes. Almost a mirror. Another case of the right tools (is wet and dry a tool?) making the job SO much easier. Keep those blades sharp!

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