New Saber Idea Design

[Natesroom]

I know i'm new to the forums, but being a graphic designer my mind starts racing with ideas until i can put them down on paper or pixel. So i took the file into Illustrator and drew over the top of it

I probably wont get to building or working on this for the next month or so but i'll probably be buying the parts over the course of a few weeks. I wanted you guys to tell me what details on the outside of the saber i am missing.

Let me know and i'll draw them into my design so that i can properly see what it needs or what needs to be moved. I dont know how i'm gonna do the electronics yet as i am NOT one of those guys yet who know his ohms and his amps

[tachikoma1]

Are you going to incorporate sound? If so, you might want to think about what kind/where to put the AUX button. Blade retention screw? You'll want to make sure Tim knows exactly where you want it so things line up. What kind of belt attachment? Covertec or D-Ring? If covertec, then also be mindful of exactly where you want it for proper alignment. Internal arrangement of electronics is also critical. Sound card, batteries, speaker, easy access to SD card if using PC or CF. Lots of variables to consider. But you only learn this stuff by doing. The electronics are not too difficult. If you get a Plecter Labs card, they have very good documentation that will help you with the wiring. I found it challenging and fun to learn.

[Silver Serpent]

It looks comfortable to hold, appears to have plenty of room for electronics. You may run into difficulty installing the PLI so close to your main switch. Depending on your skill and tools, it might be easier to move one or the other a bit further from each other.

[Natesroom]

I was thinking about putting it below the ribbed area vertically instead of horizontally... Good thoughts. So Serpent your saying TIm will pre drill the area for my blade retention screw at the top? How thick does the screw need to be?

Yes i did kind of choose items that gave me max room on the inside.

[Silver Serpent]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screws-C40.aspx There's a good selection of thumbscrews that'll work great for blade retention there. Set screws as well, if you want it to not stick out. The drilling and tapping service is extra, but worth it if you don't already have the tools to do it yourself. Keep in mind that you can always order a screw that is too long, and cut it short to fit better. You can't stretch one that is too short.

I'm not quite sure how you'd install a PLI vertically on a saber. You'd need some kind of flexible PLI to conform to the curve of the saber body.

[Natesroom]

lol...oh yeah! curving would be wild.

I can drill and tap anything at my job. I have a CNC router at my job but these type of items aren't really made for that.

[IndustrialAction]

That's going to be a really long saber. If I put the right parts in the MHS builder, you're looking at just under 16". I would shoot for an end length closer to 12". Also, unless you're going to mount the LEDs under the PLI without bezels, you're probably not going to be able to fit them in there. The PLI is wider than just the strip you see.

[Knighthammer]

I like the design, a bit long - but I like the look for sure.

[Natesroom]

Is there a general length that someone should be aware of? I think mine was 14 - 15" inches...is that to long? I may shorten it up then

[KuroChou]

It's all personal preference. Sometimes it's easy to get overexcited though, and start including more than you realistically have room for. I try to shoot for something in the 11-13" range, because I prefer one hand or hand-and-a-half, but a lot of members prefer something more like 14-18" for two hand or claymore styles.