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Thread: noob saber builder.

  1. #1

    Exclamation noob saber builder.

    Hi, so i'm new to saber building but have always wanted to build my own, i have a diploma in engineering and a city and guilds level two in fitting, milling and turning, so usually i know what i'm doing, but since I've never don this before i thought i'd pass this by the experts first any help would be grateful, any missing parts or anything, please let me know! thanks, Jacob.


    Bmbutton Black machined button for Covertec clip
    8-32Cov 8-32 x 1/4" socket head
    1/8Heat 1/8" Heatshrink tubing
    26Black 26 gauge wire (Black)
    Shilt4G Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole
    Sledholder12 Screw on LED blade holder style 12 "new style"
    MHSchokeS MHS choke style 1 short
    MPS3v1 MPS Pommel style 3 v1
    MPSI12 MPS insert style 12
    Cclip MPS Clip
    DF4DEEPFL 4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector
    doublemale Double ended male threaded connector style 1
    box4 Activation box style 4
    Box4Holes Box 4 Mounting holes service

    location: standard button hole on hilt style 4

    MBPC Main Body Powder Coating (SH41)

    Color: Black Matte Tuscan (Flat Black)

    BHPC Blade Holder Powder Coating (B121)

    Color: Black Matte Tuscan (Flat Black)

    CPC Choke Powder Coating (C1S1)

    Color: Black Matte Tuscan (Flat Black)

    PPC Pommel Powder Coating (PM31)

    Color: Black Matte Tuscan (Flat Black)

    ADPC Adapter Powder Coating (DME1)

    Color: Black Matte Tuscan (Flat Black)

    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: covertec clip hole in bottom of 4" deep fluted double female threaded connector

    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: blade retention hole in screw on led blade holder style 12.

    SeoulP4Kit Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
    4AA Battery holder
    Seoul P4 (Green)
    Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
    3.3ohm 5w resistor
    Push on/push off switch with red button
    Seoul P4 Lens Holder

    Corb1Battle LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    ** Quad Wrap
    ** Bullet Shaped

    8-32box 8-32 x 3/8" socket head
    83238WTS 8-32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
    8323TSR 8-32 x .3" red thumb screw
    LDNG DPDT Latching green illuminated switch

    also, the heatsink, does that come with the kit? because i couldn't find it anywhere :S
    I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints, the sinners are much more fun.

  2. #2

    Default

    You will need the heatsink since you've got a "new style" blade holder. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...Sink-P622.aspx

    You will need a resistor for the LED in your illuminated switch. http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz is what I use to calculate what I need.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    okay i've got my heatsink now, but i still can't figure out how to work out the diode forward voltage :/ thanks for the help by the way
    I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints, the sinners are much more fun.

  4. #4

    Default

    this is my revised basket. just to double check

    Bmbutton Black machined button for Covertec clip

    8-32Cov 8-32 x 1/4" socket head

    1/8Heat 1/8" Heatshrink tubing

    26Black 26 gauge wire (Black)

    Shilt4G Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole

    Sledholder12 Screw on LED blade holder style 12 "new style"

    MHSchokeS MHS choke style 1 short

    MPS3v1 MPS Pommel style 3 v1

    MPSI12 MPS insert style 12

    Cclip MPS Clip

    DF4DEEPFL 4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector

    doublemale Double ended male threaded connector style 1

    box4 Activation box style 4

    Box4Holes Box 4 Mounting holes service

    location: standard button hole on hilt style 4


    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: covertec clip hole in bottom of 4" deep fluted double female threaded connector

    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: blade retention hole in screw on led blade holder style 12.

    SeoulP4Kit Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
    4AA Battery holder
    Seoul P4 (Green)
    Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
    3.3ohm 5w resistor
    Push on/push off switch with red button
    Seoul P4 Lens Holder

    Corb1Battle LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    ** Quad Wrap
    ** Bullet Shaped

    8-32box 8-32 x 3/8" socket head

    83238WTS 8-32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw

    8323TSR 8-32 x .3" red thumb screw

    LDNG DPDT Latching green illuminated switch

    NHS MHS "new style" Heat Sink

    STTAPE Star thermal tape pad

    4-40nylon 4-40 Nylon Screw
    2
    2.7ohm10w 2.7ohm 10w resistor

    Buck1000N BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire


    help would be appreciated muchly
    I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints, the sinners are much more fun.

  5. #5

    Default

    Question on your batteries: are you going to be using 4 AA alkalines? I'm going to assume that you are.

    Skip the Seoul P4 kit, and just get the battery holder, Seoul P4 (green), collimator lens, and lens holder. You are already getting the other parts.

    You don't need the nylon screws with the new style heat sink.

    You can use the 2.7 ohm resistor OR the Buckpuck. You don't use both. The puck will give more efficient use out of the batteries, and a more consistent brightness, but it's more expensive. The resistor will give more brightness (especially when the batteries are fresh), but you may need to change them out a bit more frequently. It's also a lot cheaper.

    You still need a resistor for the LED in your illuminated switch. If you're using 4 AA alkalines (6v), a 150 ohm 1/4 watt resistor is what you're looking for.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

    Default

    okay so this is my new revised basket...

    Bmbutton Black machined button for Covertec clip

    8-32Cov 8-32 x 1/4" socket head

    1/8Heat 1/8" Heatshrink tubing

    26Black 26 gauge wire (Black)

    Shilt4G Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole

    Sledholder12 Screw on LED blade holder style 12 "new style"

    MHSchokeS MHS choke style 1 short

    MPS3v1 MPS Pommel style 3 v1

    MPSI12 MPS insert style 12

    Cclip MPS Clip

    DF4DEEPFL 4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector

    doublemale Double ended male threaded connector style 1

    box4 Activation box style 4

    Box4Holes Box 4 Mounting holes service

    location: standard button hole on hilt style 4


    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: covertec clip hole in bottom of 4" deep fluted double female threaded connector


    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: blade retention hole in screw on led blade holder style 12.


    Corb1Battle LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    ** Quad Wrap
    ** Bullet Shaped


    8-32box 8-32 x 3/8" socket head

    83238WTS 8-32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw

    8323TSR 8-32 x .3" red thumb screw

    LDNG DPDT Latching green illuminated switch

    NHS MHS "new style" Heat Sink

    STTAPE Star thermal tape pad

    2.7ohm10w 2.7ohm 10w resistor

    Buck1000N BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire

    Coll5 Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle

    Holder Seoul P4 Lens Holder

    P4G Seoul P4 (Green)

    4AAMHS 4AA Battery holder

    i think thats everything?
    I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints, the sinners are much more fun.

  7. #7

    Default

    You are excited and eager to begin working on building a lightsaber. This is commendable, but patience is necessary. Please reread my previous post, as you missed a couple points.

    I would recommend reading the sticky posts in the following forum as well: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ene-Start-Here
    There are some good simple wiring diagrams to get you started. I wish you the best of luck with your build and look forward to seeing it in the gallery.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8
    Jedi Padawan
    Jedi Padawan
    Boj-Vaati Mau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    608

    Default

    You do also realize that your hilt, as listed, will be 17" long?

    Knowledge must be balanced by Practice.
    Practice must be balanced by Experience.
    Through Knowledge, Practice, and Experience
    we gain Wisdom.

    -Boj-Vaati Mau
    Jedi Sentinel, Jar'Kai practitioner,
    and Instctor at Strafe Plains Temple


    Saber Guild: Strafe Plains Temple
    The Rebel Legion

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boj-Vaati Mau View Post
    You do also realize that your hilt, as listed, will be 17" long?
    Really? Man, it would be nice if you'd include a shot of the saber you're intending to build...it's really hard to visualize what you're attempting to do when you have a huge wall of text and no pictures...

    If you don't know where to do that, check out this screenshot:
    When your lightsabers gutter and die in your hands,
    your blaster packs run dry of charge,
    your words of power dry up in your throat and I am still standing,
    what will you do then?


  10. #10

    Default

    so this is what i'm going for now I've revised my design as i think this is much more sleek. \/

    this is what i was going for \/

    but i much prefer my new design
    i have a parts list for that too which i think is much more concise and clear


    MPS7 MPS Pommel style 7

    Cclip MPS Clip

    MPSI9 MPS Insert style 9

    Shilt3G Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole

    Sledholder8 Screw on LED blade holder style 8 "new style"
    MHS "new style" Heat Sink


    box7 Activation box style 7

    NCard Natural Card

    AVbezel Bezel for illuminated switches

    LDNB DPDT Latching blue illuminated switch

    Bmbutton Black machined button for Covertec clip

    SeoulP4Kit Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
    4AA Battery holder
    Seoul P4 (Blue)
    Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
    BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
    Push on/push off switch with black button
    Seoul P4 Lens Holder

    Corb1Battle LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    ** Quad Wrap
    ** Bullet Shaped

    3.3ohm5w 3.3ohm 5w resistor

    1/8Heat 1/8" Heatshrink tubing

    3/16Heat 3/16" Heatshrink tubing

    8-32Cov 8-32 x 1/4" socket head

    8-32Vthumb 8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

    83238SS 8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw

    8-32Lset 8-32 x 1/4" Set screw

    8323TSR 8-32 x .3" red thumb screw

    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: blade retention hole in blade holder, on thin neck part not on thicker end part, on the same side at the on/off button hole. where a box will be.

    DrillTap Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

    location: hilt style 3 bottom opposite on/off button hole, for covertec clip.
    Last edited by thepake; 06-30-2011 at 04:32 PM.
    I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints, the sinners are much more fun.

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