Jedi Mynock's "Copper Top v2.0" MHS Build

[Jedi Mynock]

Here we go...

My second MHS, using a couple parts from my first, so its more of an extensive rebuild of my first saber that i recently dubbed "Copper Top".
reference pic of Copper Top v1.2


I will explain why pics will be hard to post, right off the get-go. i only have a tablet that for some reason is not allowing me to upload pics to a share site, or attach to emails. so i will try to get them up somehow, editing posts as i go.
so with that said...

saber will be 90% TCSS MHS, with some bits and pieces here and there from various other sources. some parts are not final, just stand in until i get it all functional and i can do further upgrades (Copper Top v2.xx) so this build thread could get lengthy lol

here is what i've got so far...


all of my MHS parts have arrived, and the pommel, blade holder, and female to female adapter are from CTv1. already has a BH thumbscrew installed.
I have a PC-L (#16 on wait list to have MH re-flash to PC status woo!)
P4 white (might replace with LEDengin 5w neutral white later, using JST's on LED connection) blade will be yellow with TCSS color disc
TCSS premium speaker with mount
3.7v trustfire 18650
MHS Chassis disc system will be used, have half of parts just needed to test fit.
2.1 recharge port in control box (mounted crosswise to use graflex lever for kill key)
activation and aux will be tactiles mounted under bubble strip.
going to drill out a bubble on each end, glue a LED tip to button and mount under card for seamless appearance.

currently the rear section (deep fluted 4" double female) is primered, waiting for bake. then it will be shot with some flat black and baked again.
if this weathers too quickly i will consider powder coating. wait and see...

also have a rough cut of the forward "Starkiller-esque" sinktube shroud. currently sanding off all chrome. most likely going with light olive oil bake. tip of BH1 will be sprayed metallic copper.

overall feel of the saber will be VERY Original Trilogy. might even go with the BespinII font.

this thing feels wicked in hand. since i already have a thumbscrew i popped a TCSS battle blade in and did some very light spinning.
LOVE IT so far...

i have snapped pics but i need to upload them. this weekend will be busy with san diego fair and father's day festivities (come onnnnnn saberfunds! lol), but i will try to upload pics at least.
see you then! in the meantime...
OMM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM

[Silver Serpent]

It sounds like you have a well planned saber. Looking forward to seeing pics.

[Jedi Mynock]

thanks! me too! lol
along with trying to post pics, finish the shroud, painting/baking... i hope to maybe solder up the trustfire. need to read up on soldering li-ions. scary!
oh and i need to order a bubble card and graflex lever.

[Silver Serpent]

Make sure you take a file or bit of sandpaper and scratch the battery terminals a bit before you start. Don't leave the iron on the battery for more than a few seconds. Wear good eye protection, just in case. Avoid lead-free solder, it takes more heat to melt and flow properly. I use 60/40 solder and it works very well. Just don't feed the solder scraps to your kids and you should be fine

Here's Az's post on Li-Ion packs, in case you hadn't seen it. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-Battery-Packs

[Jedi Mynock]

yeah Az's tut is what scared me lol
wait so i shouldnt feed the led solder to my kids? is it okay if i have some?

; )
thanks!

[Silver Serpent]

Lead is especially bad for children, as it inhibits the development of their brains. In an adult this is less of an issue, since the development is pretty much complete. You just have to be concerned with lead poisoning, which is dependant on lead ingested/body mass.

So yes, it's ok if you have some. *





*Disclaimer: Following my advice may lead to serious health complications. Do so at your own risk.