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Thread: Birthday Saber for the Wife, Parts check plz!

  1. #11

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    The speaker mount in the pommel can be padded with something (hot glue, o-ring, etc) to fix the spacing issue caused by the trim ring. I'm not sure about the spacing on the bladeholder. You always have to option to grind down the locking ring on the inside of the trim ring so it just slides in place, but you'll need something like JB-Weld to attach it then.

    It's a very nice looking design, I wish you the best of luck getting it built in time.
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  2. #12

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    Very nice project! Just a suggestion: the Candy Gold is a perfect powder coating but remember: it is a soft yellow gold. The color in your picture is similar to the Jollypop Copper Orange Powder Coating. To see the Candy Gold, you can give a look at my building thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...st-sound-saber).
    It is possible to commit no mistakes and still lose. That is not a weakness, that is life.
    [Jean-Luc Picard]

  3. #13

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    So, I've updated the main post with a new picture and tweaked the parts list to reflect the new changes!

    First, after an informative chatbox discussion (Thanks Az and CC!), I realized the emitter-side trim ring wouldn't work without a lot of custom kerjiggering that I don't know if I'm capable of undertaking at this juncture, so that trim ring was moved to the joist between the fluted and ribbed sections, preserving the "pair of wedding bands" imagery I was intending (As Tahm correctly recognized) while ensuring that parts will fit together cleanly and solidly.

    Secondly, I depicted (somewhat crudely) the pair of Red/Green LED indicators I will be mounting on the left-hand side of the hilt, in line longitudinally with the activation box and evenly spaced radially between the activation box and the shroud reveal cut:

    These will be wired to the PC-L's accent pads, and set up on the sequencer to flicker.

    I had an idea to add the yellow indicator of the same style between the red and green, with the green wired to come on when the kill key is pulled, and the red/yellow wired to the accent pads, but I'd like feedback on that first.

    Third, the aux momentary switch was added, it will be placed such that it extrudes from within the valley of the ribs if possible, or out of the ridge if not, but protruding only enough to be pressed, and as inconspicuous as possible:


    Fourth, a crazy notion. If I were to drill holes in the pommel-side section of the fluted piece and the covering shroud, matching the diameter of the holes in the pommel insert, then mount a parallel array of pink accent LEDs to the pommel side of the electronics/sound sled, their light would fill the resonance chamber and spill out the resulting openings, alluding to a crystal chamber even before one was actually created:


    Finally, an open opinion question to you all:

    Which emitter shroud cut looks better?

    The bottom one has the benefit of a very traditional ANH/ESB feel to it, while the top one is more unique. Additionally, after this version was completed, I toyed with the idea of extending the cut almost to the shroud over the ribbed section, similar to the Ahsoka Tano shroud, which also opens up the option to add more light-emitting drill holes
    *EDIT* I mocked up emitter style 2.1 like I was talking about above, with the drill-outs:

    (Havn't decided if this would be too much or not. Maybe pick between the pommel-side drilling and emitter-side?)

    So, once I (with your continued amazing help) figure out these last few details, I'll be ready to place this order and get started!
    Last edited by (null).exe; 06-04-2011 at 01:45 AM. Reason: insomnia+photoshop CS4=moar work done :D
    When your lightsabers gutter and die in your hands,
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    what will you do then?


  4. #14

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    I like a lot the array of accent LEDs near the pommel! Personally, I would go with the ESB style shroud. The other shroud is more unique but in my opinion it is less fluid than the traditional one.
    It is possible to commit no mistakes and still lose. That is not a weakness, that is life.
    [Jean-Luc Picard]

  5. #15

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    You may not be able to use that trim ring on the pommel like you are, if you plan on using a speaker mount.

    Otherwise I love it, Pink FTW!

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  6. #16

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    When your lightsabers gutter and die in your hands,
    your blaster packs run dry of charge,
    your words of power dry up in your throat and I am still standing,
    what will you do then?


  7. #17
    Jedi Knight
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    personally, i think that reverse sound would be awesome in this by drilling some holes under the emitter end shroud in the ribbed area.
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  8. #18

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    If you go with the reverse sound that Az suggested (good idea IMO) then I would go with just drilled out holes near the pommel and use a crystal pommel light up method. It would save a ton of LED wiring inside the pommel area.
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  9. #19

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    I like the new emitter shroud best, because it's not like the ANH style (not that that's not great saber), it will be more personal having something completely unique. Reverse sound I think would be best. Not only because it's less "kerjiggering" but the shroud would probably make an awesome resonance chamber.

    If it were my saber I would pass on the holes in the emitter but keep the holes in the pommel, and I'd pass on the yellow accent LED also (too much like a traffic light IMO) but the green coming on when the kill plug is pulled sounds cool.

    Lastly the Jollypop copper orange is a very dark orange, and is definitely NOT the color you're looking for if you want a gold look.
    Last edited by Tahm; 06-04-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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  10. #20

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    Copper orange comes out slightly darker than picky's signature saber.
    +1 for resonance chamber, im doing that with a ribbed section myself.
    If your going to drill out holes close to the pommel, be carefull not to drill into the thread, maybe check with tim if its possible.
    Just curious, but where you placking the blade retention Screw?
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