Wasn't meaning to "double post". But since this is considered a new post now, for the cyan LED it looks like I can only do LUX III, but now it's either resistor or buck puck. thoughts?
Wasn't meaning to "double post". But since this is considered a new post now, for the cyan LED it looks like I can only do LUX III, but now it's either resistor or buck puck. thoughts?
Where are you getting that information from?
Lux3 are a very old LED model. I would suggest hunting around on the interwebs for a CREE RGBW LED and going from there with a buckpuck and some pots to tune the exact color you want. If you must have an LED right now, Tim has the Seoul P4 and Rebel Stars on the storefront, but it looks like the Rebel Star Cyan LED is out of stock right now, so you might not be able to get the Cyan you're looking for.
When your lightsabers gutter and die in your hands,
your blaster packs run dry of charge,
your words of power dry up in your throat and I am still standing,
what will you do then?
All 3 of these LEDs have been out of production for about a year. You must be looking at old threads and information.
Oh, and I merged your posts, please refrain from double posting, thanks.
Also, you can't send Private Message till you have been on the Forum for 15 days, and have made 10 posts, just FYI.
Last edited by Jedi-Loreen; 06-06-2011 at 09:00 AM.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
Just a thought, if you wish to have a Cyan colored blade... try using a white Rebel star or P4 with the 12 colored discs that Tim sells.
Finished Sabers:
05 MR Vader ANH (Red Rebel Star)
05 MR Mace AotC/RotS (White Rebel Star)
Current Project:
FLAMESTRIKE
LAVABURST
Myself, I would go with the P4. I have it in my first saber and it is VERY bright, and just right when you put a color disk in.
So, since today was payday, I thought about helping boost the economy by purchasing the electronics for my saber:
P4 Kit:
- 4 AAA batteries
- White LED ( would really like a cyan LED, but will do discs I guess)
- Buck Puck
- I have the switch already: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DP...itch-P436.aspx
- 5 or 10 degree lens (not sure which to get)
- Thermal Star Tape
I was thinking this would be good for beginner. Please provide suggestions. I was thinking in the future doing a crystal chamber, as I will have the room. I appreciate all the help comments.
Thank you
as stated earlier in this thread, you wont need a buckpuck with a 4AAA battery pack. just a resistor.
and i would go with the 8.7degree lens.
everything else looks good to me!
but MAN is that long!!!
NOMING YOUR POWER CABLES SINCE 2007
MHS #1 "Coppertop" CFX Neopixel
MR 616 "Joe Jedi"
LDM converted Korbanth LS6 (Hero with PC 1.6 and FOC)
Vintage graflex ANH - probably staying static
Disney Savi Saber Peace and Justice (experience was worth it)
That's what she said! sorry couldn't resist my childish ways Again, thank you for the help. I will get the 8.75 lens.
1 more silly question for the day, then I should be done. Does the white with the color disc really look good, or should i go for the Cyan LED? I guess i'm worried about pure color over diffraction.
Last edited by MedicineMan; 06-10-2011 at 12:24 PM.
herrrrrrre you go!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-Colors-Blades
i have a luxIII white with color discs and it works pretty good on a TCSS battle blade. P4 works so well i am (finally!) upgrading this weekend.
use 1 green and 1 blue disc for a nice cyan.
NOMING YOUR POWER CABLES SINCE 2007
MHS #1 "Coppertop" CFX Neopixel
MR 616 "Joe Jedi"
LDM converted Korbanth LS6 (Hero with PC 1.6 and FOC)
Vintage graflex ANH - probably staying static
Disney Savi Saber Peace and Justice (experience was worth it)
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