No, you don't NEED a buck puck, but it will make much more efficient use of your batteries, keeping a constant current to the LED (and therefore, brightness, even when the batteries are getting low).
With just a resistor the excess current just gets bled off as heat, the buck puck will use it.
I use buck pucks in my personal stunt sabers.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
Sweet deal. So will definitely be doing the buck puck. Solid advice, thanks. Now to go shopping
EDIT: Once TCSS has the 8.7 degree lenses in I will be ordering mah parts.
Last edited by MedicineMan; 06-15-2011 at 05:26 AM.
Hate to double post, but my edits show no replies:
For electronics list:
Buck Puck 1000mA 4 wire?
Seoul P4 (white)
Collimator 8.7 lens
star thermal tape
Not sure on connecting my switch to the LED and battery pack. A nice tutorial on that would be sweet.
Last edited by MedicineMan; 06-16-2011 at 08:55 AM.
the 4 wire buckpuck is what you'll need for what you're doing. If you really want a cyan blade, then get a cyan led. tTe filters and a white led have never been very bright in comparison to the actual color led. Unfortunately, you may have a hard time getting an led that actually looks cyan though, because they are not all the same shade of blue-green....some are more green than blue.
There should be a wiring diagram for a stunt set up in the store front's "led resistor chart" page:http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wi...er/wiring.aspx
Enter your led selection, then your battery source and it will show you a diagram that will also show you where the switch needs to go (in between the battery and the buck buck on either the positive side of the circuit or the negative....it really doesn't matter).
Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 06-19-2011 at 07:39 PM.
Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.
At MM's request, I put some work into designing a shroud for this beast of a hilt, using the following keywords as design guidelines:
- Jedi Hilt
- Cyan Blade
- Black/Silver/Electrum Hilt
- Creative vs. Logical
- Mechanical vs. Organic
A basic single-piece shroud, with repeated long slots down the length of the hilt to accentuate the size of the piece and to contrast with the radial lines from the main piece and the ribbed extension.
Slots widen at the grip areas, smoothly revealing more of the underhilt, while still maintaining the overall flow of the weapon from pommel to emitter.
Shroud curves away to apex at the emitter, bringing the eye gently to the focal point of the weapon, the emitter, without sharply jerking the attention back and forth.
JEDI: Sharp angles and points were completely removed, leaving only smooth, rounded lines, reminiscent of the Jedi's principle of deflecting aggression instead of opposing it. While black is a predominant color, it is not the glossy black fury of a Sith hilt, but rather the satiny black calm of the meditative state.
CREATIVE: This simple hilt is not without ornamentation. Care was taken to use pleasing lines and edges to reveal complex correlations of sublines and adjacent colors, merely for their aesthetic value. Yes, this is a tool, and a lethal one at that, but even tools are beautiful in their expression of use.
MECHANICAL: The addition of natural materials was completely avoided, removing organic softness from what, at it's core, is an instrument of death, albeit a strictly controlled one. This is not the flower-wreathed meditation of the Buddha, but the stark and almost sterile meditation of Zen, removing all comforts and distractions to the task at hand. The cold press of the shroud edges when gripped remind the wielder of the seriousness of activating their weapon, and the consequences thereof.
COLORS: Black and Silver were easy to accomplish, but how to get Electrum? That grey/gold glint of mixed metals? A thin application of a gold metallic enamel over the bare aluminum parts should get a color close to ancient electrum, and then after baking, it can be masked off and the matte black applied over the top and re-baked, before the whole piece is matte clear coated and final baked.
I hope you enjoy
When your lightsabers gutter and die in your hands,
your blaster packs run dry of charge,
your words of power dry up in your throat and I am still standing,
what will you do then?
Congrats null, you made the behemoth look good! I'm curious how long the shroud itself ended up. The MHS sleeve material only goes up to 18 inches in the store.
Those long straight lines are gonna be tough to do by hand. I hope MM has a lot of patience and steady hands. And a good sturdy belt. Hanging the behemoth from your hip is gonna make your pants sag if you're not careful
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Cool design. I wouldn't hang it from my belt. I think a center-of-the-back harness or something would be cool. Or perhaps something to lash it to your leg. So instead all the weight of it dangling from your belt, it would move with your thigh.
"So he drove out the man; and he placed at the east of the garden of Eden Cherubims, and a flaming sword which turned every way, to keep the way of the tree of life." -- Genesis 3:24 Lightsabers are real.
Yeah, I measured it a couple times to make sure for that very reason, it came in at 17.25"
Proper layout and working slowly should alleviate most of those issues. And you just need a proper Jedi Kidney belt with your Covertec Clip attached, and it'll stay up fine.Those long straight lines are gonna be tough to do by hand. I hope MM has a lot of patience and steady hands. And a good sturdy belt. Hanging the behemoth from your hip is gonna make your pants sag if you're not careful
That would be cool, but then brings in it's own problems of developing and building a thigh mount with some sort of attachment system for the hilt.
When your lightsabers gutter and die in your hands,
your blaster packs run dry of charge,
your words of power dry up in your throat and I am still standing,
what will you do then?
Behold the Moster Saber of Jedi MedicineMan! Excellent treatment null, I'm really digging the colors and the Tano inspired shroud. Blue or cyan is a good color choice in keeping with the Zen/sterile concept.
Knowledge must be balanced by Practice.
Practice must be balanced by Experience.
Through Knowledge, Practice, and Experience
we gain Wisdom.
-Boj-Vaati Mau
Jedi Sentinel, Jar'Kai practitioner,
and Instctor at Strafe Plains Temple
Saber Guild: Strafe Plains Temple
The Rebel Legion
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