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Thread: Adapter from extension to blade holder?

  1. #1

    Default Adapter from extension to blade holder?

    I need an adapter that can go from the mhs ribbed extension to the blade holder that has a big enough 'gap' between the threaded areas that the SPST lighted switch can fit there.

    I think the 2" adapter would work (it seems a bit bigger than necessary) but it has the wrong threads. It would need to be Male on one end and Female on the other.

    I saw the gender changer but it has 2 issues.. 1) it adds length which I do not want and 2) it is not meant for 'high stress' areas of the hilt which this would be.

    Anyone know if the 2" adapter could be made Male to Female instead?


    I guess an alternate option would be to rotate the extension 180 degrees so the female end goes towards the pommel, but I also need the 'gap' from extension to pommel to be big enough for adding buttons/LEDs without adding too much length to the saber.

  2. #2
    Jedi Knight
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    i think we need pictures of what you want to do from the MHS builder... that way we can see what you're trying to do. personally, i would use an MHS gear, but we went over that in chat...
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  3. #3

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    There is a rough example. (with example switch/leds in place)

    It goes Pomel to 2" adapter then to Ribbed Extension, then another 2" adapter, then blade holder.

    I need 1 of the 2" adapters to be Female on one end and Male on the other to make that work. I guess I could use the gender changer on the one by the pomel but that wouldnt be my preferred way.

  4. #4
    Jedi Knight
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    why not use the short double male?
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Do...le-1-P127.aspx
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

    Duel - to fight someone 1 on 1. Dual - 2 of something in line with each other.
    Quote Originally Posted by Multiple People
    To Azmaria listen you should...

  5. #5

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    Use the 2in dbl female at the blade holder. That is the high stress area. Then the ribbed section. Do what ever with the rest and it should be ok.

  6. #6

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    What if you went 1-Pommel 2-2"extension 3-then a double male adapter 4-ribbed extension(female end aft and male end forward) 5-2"extension 6-blade holder.
    It'll be tad bit longer but it still looks relatively the same. I've got a double male adapter on my new one. Sure did the trick.

  7. #7

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    People keep asking for a Male/Female adapter. I don't see why you just don't put a gender changer inside on end of the X" extension. It would accomplish the same thing. People never stop to think that if Tim were to make a Male/Female extension it will still have the same structural problem that a genderchanger or doublemale adapter has. Namely, if you keep the 1.25" ID, and add male threading on one end, it is alway (ALWAYS!!!!) going to be extremely thin where the male threads are. The only other option would be to have it with a smaller bore like on the MHSRibbed sections. You'd have thicker wall at the threaded portion, but you lose the extra ID clearance and might have internal space problems with the smaller bore through most of the saber. Me personally, I would leave you saber as shown in the picture and add a doublemale or genderchanger between the MHSRibbed and 2" extension nearest the pommel.

  8. #8

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    I just built a nearly identical saber for a member of the rebel Legion:

    I used the method most of the members already posted....pommel, 3" double threaded female connector, double male adapter, ribbed extension, another 2" double female adapter, and then the blade holder.

    I had toyed with the parts for this one as well, and tried it using a 2" extension in place of the 3", but it was too stubby looking in person, and there was almost no space in the bottom of the saber for the speaker and a set of batteries:

    If you're going to add sound and light, you'll need to plan ahead for the electronics. Another problem I had with this type of design, was the "nub" on the back of the heatsink. It blocked the switch from fitting in the 2" extension so I had to remove it. That wasn't easy, and it killed a rotary tool I had used for 50+ saber builds and owned for several years.

    Here was the finished saber:


    a full build topic for it is here:
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=29088.0
    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 04-24-2011 at 06:12 PM.

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  9. #9

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    Jay-gon Jinn, for the TCSS aluminum sleeve you used on that saber, does it come that shiny already, or did you polish it up? I ask because I was debating using it for the saber I'm going to build, instead of a chrome sink tube, but on the TCSS site the pictures don't look like it has as good of a finish.

  10. #10

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    I'm fairly positive that Jay-gon polished it up.
    Yub Yub Commander.

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