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Thread: How to?

  1. #1

    Default How to?

    I recently posted a thread titled "Is it possible". Basically, In that thread I wanted to know if it was possible to have two removable blades for my M.R. Anakin R.O.T.S. lightsaber (A Makotosai red LED blade, and the original blue LED blade it came with).
    I figured it would be possible, but I wanted to make sure it was before I (potentially) jacked up the saber.

    Now I need help from some experienced sabersmiths, to tell me how I can do this.
    Im not tech savy, AT ALL. So a bunch of numbers and abbreviations need to be explained to me.

    This is what I know so far.

    What I am wanting to do is possible.
    I will need 66 Makotosai red LEDs.
    I will need a quick connect (which model, idk.)
    I will need a new blade (up for suggestion on how thick and long).
    And I might need a metal blade holder (idk about this yet, I dont want to spend too much money.)

    Many thanks to Rafalema for the help he already gave me. ^^^

    I should have all the tools I need except for the heat shrink.

    I was told the estimated price might be $70. Thats about $15 dollars over what I wanted to spend at the max. If the price could be brought down from $70 (through cheaper products), that would be great.

    You might ask if I want to duel with the blade. The answer is yes. But if this means adding $30 dollars on top of the $70, then I will stick with the blade holder that came with the sword.

    I have done much research and reading. So much reading, that I have literally gotten out of the chair, screamed (a manly scream of course ), and took a good break. So I know a little.

    Basically what Im asking for is a list of parts, and instructions. I know there are instructions all over the site, and I have seen and read MANY of them. But none of them seem to be exactly what I need, or they only cover 1 topic. And thats where it stops for me, Im not tech savy, so I have no idea in the world what to do next, and then it starts back at ground zero in my mind.

    So, if someone could take the time to help me, that would be wonderful!!!


    P.S. I want to have this saber complete before my birthday in May. So Im on somewhat of a time crunch.

  2. #2

    Default

    About the quick-connect, you need one that fits inside your bladeholder and has at least 7 connections

    Blade, I'd suggest 36" trans-white thinwall

    If you wanna duel, then pretty much the only way to do that is with the metal bladeholder. Of course, you could duel with the stock one till it breaks

    Tutorial for the bladeLEDs
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13487.0
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13567.0

    Tutorial for the connector
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13553.0

    What you need
    -60-70 LEDs depending on your blade length (Someone with LEDstring experience can chime in how many LEDs is needed per inch)
    -A transwhite-thinwall blade tube
    -Thinwall blade bullet/rounded tip (some acrylic glue for the tip gluing)
    -Cellophane (Only if you want to improve the diffusing of the LEDs)
    -(at least) 7-pin connector
    -(Optionally) Conversion kit

    Tools
    -Soldering equipment
    -Lighter (for heatshrinking)
    -A drill may be needed

    If you want to finish before May then you should order quite quickly. (DON'T RUSH IT though, better to do it right and slow than fast and wrong)

    After your birthday, you might want to get a TCSS Bladeplug and put some LEDs there on quick connects so that you can have light and sound without blade

  3. #3

    Click here to learn all about me!
    The Shoutbox: The only place you can double post!
    Anybody who spells it Lightsabre is dyslexic
    "Yeah, if I had Skotts face I'd hit it too" ~ Fenderbender
    "You didn't buy a toy saber just to break it. You bought an economy sound card with a really complicated wrapping scheme." ~ Silver Serpent

  4. #4

    Default

    Rafalema, Idk how to thank you! You have made my day!

    So why do you suggest a 7 pin connecter at the least?

    Skottsaber: Why do you suggest a DIN?

  5. #5

    Default

    7 connects is the minimum if you want to keep the scrolling effect.

    (MRFX Boards have a common - lead and 6 + leads to achieve the effect)
    DIN Connectors are compact, easy, really the best found so far for this kinda stuff

  6. #6

    Default

    Because they are round and fit inside 1" bladeholders. Do a search and you'll see.

    Click here to learn all about me!
    The Shoutbox: The only place you can double post!
    Anybody who spells it Lightsabre is dyslexic
    "Yeah, if I had Skotts face I'd hit it too" ~ Fenderbender
    "You didn't buy a toy saber just to break it. You bought an economy sound card with a really complicated wrapping scheme." ~ Silver Serpent

  7. #7

    Default

    OKay, DIN connecter is is! Im guessing that instead of connecting the DIN connecter straight to the batteries (like in the tutorial), Im going to connect in the MRFX sound board?

  8. #8

    Default

    Okay so, a DIN connecter is still what I am planning on using, but are there any other kind of cables that would work? Reason being, I have a lot of extra cables at my house that are not being used. So if there is a cable here that could be used, I would rather use that than spend extra money on something I didn't have to spend on.

  9. #9

    Default

    Yes, the DIN connector goes to the MRFX soundboard.

    What kinda cables? Multi-wire cables?
    Personally, I'd just wire everything with thin electric wire, since multi-wire cables are usually very stiff and don't bend well.

    Good luck!

  10. #10

    Default

    Oh, lol, idk the names of them all. I figured you would name other cables that would work and I would look it up and see if I had it. But thats okay, I think Ill stick with the DIN.

    So do you have a certain site you would suggest for the DIN? Something cheap, but will work?

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