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Thread: Speaker Help

  1. #1

    Default Speaker Help

    Hello everyone. For the past few months, I have been diligently researching and studying the forums. I have been working on my first sinktube saber. However, I have ran into a slight problem with the cheap Hasbro obi-wan card. My speaker seems to have come unsoldered. I can not seem to figure out which solder pads to connect the wires to. Can anyone give me any advice on soldering the wires?

    On a side note, I noticed that If i wired the Hasbro sound card according to the diagram I used(7.2v, buck-puck variant) the led would stay on all the time. I had to put a latching switch on in order to turn the led off. Is there a way to wire to where the switch connected to the board turns the led on as well as the sound?

  2. #2
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    I believe if you read this thread it will answer both of your questions...
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  3. #3


    Thank you, I was able to get the switch situation under control. However I was unable resolve the other problem. Maybe I should rephrase my question. It would appear that the wires connecting to the speaker itself have been pulled out. When attempting to resolder the wires I was unable to distinguish which of the four pads on the speaker connected to the positive and negative wires coming from the board. Which soldering pads on the speaker are used?

  4. #4


    The pads on the side with the red dot are positive. It doesn't really matter, because the speaker still moves no matter which polarity you connect it up.
    Use either the outer set of pads or inner set of pads on each side. For example, use the left most pad and the right most pad.

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  5. #5
    Jedi Knight
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    yep, red dot is positive. and personally, i use the outer 2 pads.

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  6. #6


    Polarity only really matters with speakers if you have more than one producing the same signal. Which, in a saber, you usually don't of course. Usually.

  7. #7


    Thanks everyone for the help! I had tried many different variations and none seemed to work. I am going to go back and check all of my connections to make sure that is not the problem. Hopefully i can get this project finished today!


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