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Thread: 2010 Hasbro Darth Vader Electronic Lightsaber

  1. #1
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    Boj-Vaati Mau's Avatar
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    Default 2010 Hasbro Darth Vader Electronic Lightsaber

    I was going to title this as a disassembly but it doesn't turn out that way. You may be able to use a solvent instead of cutting but, potentially, it'll melt the butt cap & shroud anyway. As it is, proceed at your own risk.


    I had bought this for the sake of its guts for my Sentinel saber. It's a good looking piece & was hoping to keep the shell as a model as it seems pretty accurate. As it stands, with the way Hasbro assembled it, it may not work out that way as the shroud & butt cap/speaker grill are cemented to the hilt. I'll have images later in the show but let's get started.

    Remove the few screws there are, starting with the "blade retention" screw. It really didn't seem to do much.


    Remove this non-functional blade retention screw & D ring.



    Remove the two screws from the activation box.


    Then the battery cover. This can be left on if you don't have batteries installed.


    Now for a bit of a struggle. The bottom of the activation box opens easily enough but the switch side dosen't. I'd separated the bottom as far as it would go which did provide me space to get a #2 Xacto blade into one end of the box. I wiggled this a much as possible but still had to tap the blade into the other side to work it lose. Once I got that as far as I could, a standard screw driver popped it loose. Damage, of course, was done to the plastic in the process. This is how the hilt looks post removal.


    Next, I tried to remove the emitter shroud but was foiled in my efforts. I tried to tap it with the butt of a screwdriver. Then I banged it on the edge of a shelving unit (the corners of the shroud are good for this). I went to a hammer after failing at the shelves. No go on hammer & more damage to the finish.



    At this point I figured that I'd messed it up enough that I'd just try the butt cap. This didn't unscrew or pop off so I got medieval on it with a razor saw. It complied after the frist bit was broken off.


    This is when I finally know what they did. They held the cap on by using a liquid solvent (I believe).


    So this means that the shroud has to be held on in the same fashion, so I got medieval on it with the Dremel & a cut-off wheel.



    With the shroud & butt cap off I could use the trusty #2 blade to prise the hilt open. I started at the back & worked forward.



    Once I had the sides apart I could see what I was up against at the shroud end. Quite a bit of solvent (white coloration) and, I think, a bit more spread than originally intended.


    For our troubles this is what we get, yes! .


    The control module with 3 red LEDs (not all that powerful really).



    The activation switch, may be useful as an accessory.


    The swing sensor.


    The speaker probably isn't too much use in a saber but it is functional..


    And finally the clash sensor. I'm thinking that this could be removed from the board and relocated via extension wires. Possibly attach it to the bottom of the Rebel Star mount?

    So, overall not much useable outside of the guts. Been contemplating fitting the area around the swing sensor into an MHS piece but that's still a bit in the future. Also, I'm not sure yet how the bubble strip will work on a Graflex, MPP, or TCSS Box 7, but I aim to find out.


    Now all that is left is to desolder a few joints and these guts can inhabit a new body!
    Last edited by Boj-Vaati Mau; 02-21-2011 at 11:02 PM.

    Knowledge must be balanced by Practice.
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    and Instctor at Strafe Plains Temple


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  2. #2
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    The activation box fits perfectly over 1" electrical conduit PVC.
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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  3. #3
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    i recommend putting your sensors near your pommel. and now everyone can see how much of a pain it is taking any of these things apart. they used enough glue to seal them completely. thanks! ^_^
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

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    I normally take the screws out and dremel down both sides and across the bottom of the pommel and split it apart. It is a whole lot quicker since there is not really a way to salvage the hilt. I also salvage the blade too. You can use parts of is to hold your electronics.

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    oooh yeah definitely salvage the blade - that little plastic plug at the base of it has come in handy several times for me! if you shave the lip off, it fits perfectly inside MHS main parts! ^_^
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

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    I am using the same sound board. I want to use a P4 white, will I have enough power just replacing the LEDs or do I have to do more?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hebert466 View Post
    I am using the same sound board. I want to use a P4 white, will I have enough power just replacing the LEDs or do I have to do more?
    hebert, please click on the red link in my sig. it has all the info you need in the first post AND a video.
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

    Duel - to fight someone 1 on 1. Dual - 2 of something in line with each other.
    Quote Originally Posted by Multiple People
    To Azmaria listen you should...

  8. #8
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    Thank you for the input folks. About a half hour after posting I found Azmaria's posts & video, very good, clear information that I most definitely use. Highly recommended! Got a good chuckle out of how to use the "blade".
    Last edited by Boj-Vaati Mau; 02-21-2011 at 11:16 PM.

    Knowledge must be balanced by Practice.
    Practice must be balanced by Experience.
    Through Knowledge, Practice, and Experience
    we gain Wisdom.

    -Boj-Vaati Mau
    Jedi Sentinel, Jar'Kai practitioner,
    and Instctor at Strafe Plains Temple


    Saber Guild: Strafe Plains Temple
    The Rebel Legion

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