One question about saber sound

[Silver Serpent]

1) The sound board will not put out enough power to run the LED by itself. The PNP transistor takes care of that for you.
2) You connect all three negative wires together and then run them to the PNP transistor.
3) It's just a wire on the sound board that you don't use. Cut it off if it's in the way.

This diagram works, and it works well. It's been tried and tested many many times by a number of us on the forums.

[Skottsaber]

The soundboard cannot run the LED at full power by itself, the transistor lets it do that.
The 3 negative outputs are wired together to give maximum power to the transistor.
The Transistor out becomes the LED +, so you don't use the one on the soundboard.

[Malakay]

and does that transistor have any precise parameters?


"The soundboard cannot run the LED at full power by itself, the transistor lets it do that."
But I don´t need LED to be powered from soundboard. Led will be powered directly from batteries through the resistor.

[Bothrops]

But I don´t need LED to be powered from soundboard. Led will be powered directly from batteries through the resistor.

In that case, you are really dealing with 2 circuits, one of which wants a momentary switch (the sound board), while the other wants a latching (the LED). A momentary switch with just a resistor will not keep the LED lit, unless the sound board is in there to help it do so.

To repeat: you can wire either of 2 ways:
(1) one circuit with one momentary switch that incorporates the sound board and a TIP42 transistor
(2) two circuits, with 2 different switches

Most people choose the first because they don't want 2 switches (different types) on their hilt. However, if you want to be able to turn on your sound or LED separately, the 2nd approach is nice.

[vctrsone]

"The soundboard cannot run the LED at full power by itself, the transistor lets it do that."
But I don´t need LED to be powered from soundboard. Led will be powered directly from batteries through the resistor.

as both has said you have two seperate circuits to activate. I use a dp3t switch its an on-on-on switch. you use the first on as the off postion the middle as the mom and the last as your led on. as you push past the middle it acts as a momentary on switch. it works very well. In my latest build i have used a dp3t micro toggle switch.

this is the thread about using those switches. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...flash-on-clash.

[RattleHornet]

I using MJE2955T transistor (Vceo=60V, Ic=10A, hFE=100, Pc=75W) instead of TIP42.
spec sheet is here.

[Malakay]

I using MJE2955T transistor (Vceo=60V, Ic=10A, hFE=100, Pc=75W) instead of TIP42.
spec sheet is here.

what is the difference?is it better or what?

[Malakay]

ok.I remade it. Is this correct?
I was thinking about and I decided to make it according to that diagram I found here. It´s uselessly difficult to have 2 switches.
arrows represent the voltage flowing through diagram

I using MJE2955T transistor (Vceo=60V, Ic=10A, hFE=100, Pc=75W) instead of TIP42.
spec sheet is here.

what is the difference?is it better or what?

to Jedi-Loreen:
you can delete first one

[Jedi-Loreen]

When you make 2 posts within minutes of each other, that's Double Posting. Please just go back and edit your first post and add the new information.

I merged your first double posts near the top of this page. Haven't decided if I'm going to merge these last two or not.

[Azmaria Dei]

Malakay - yes that's exactly the same wiring as the other diagrams.

J-Lo - i would either merge them or do a double merge and merge them with a post further up, but that's just me.