First saber build… mind checking if I missed anything?

[smdwilliams]

Hello,

I've been browsing on the forums reading on building a saber for months. I have a 2010 Hasbro Obi-Wan saber that I'll grab the soundboard from and plan on using the attached wiring diagram.

------------------------------------------------------------
HILT ELECTRONICS
------------------------------------------------------------

LED
•*Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue) <I'm assuming this is the Lux V because of the 700mA @3.4v)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx
•*3.3ohm 5w resistor < correct? >
• Luxeon Rebel lens holder
•*Star thermal tape pad
• Heat sink shim for Rebel Stars
•*Luxeon collimator lens 8.7º viewing angle

SOUND
• 2010 Obi-Wan Hasbro soundboard
•*(2) swing sensors
• (1) clash sensor
•*MHS speaker mount V2
• Premium speaker

POWER
• 6AA battery holder (will use standard AAs for 9v)
•*Premium 9v connector

MISC
•*2ft. dual 18 gauge wire
•*3/32" heatshrink
•*NEED TO GET: TIP42 PNP type transistor


------------------------------------------------------------
SWITCHES:
------------------------------------------------------------
• Push on / off switch with black button
• Black rubber switch boot


------------------------------------------------------------
BLADE
------------------------------------------------------------
•*LED "Corbin Style" show blade, 1" OD 36"
•*8/32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
• Drill and tap service for thumbscrew


------------------------------------------------------------
HILT from pommel to blade holder
------------------------------------------------------------
• MPS insert style #1
• MPS clip
•*MPS pommel style #3v2
• 3" fluted double female threaded connector (PC Flat Black)
•*MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (PC Flat Black)
• MHS choke style #3 (6 holes drilled around midsection)
• Blade holder style #17

Thanks for taking a look and excited to be joining the community.

- J
*

[Sidd]

you need a double male connector between the fluted section and the grooved ribbed section if you want to be able to connect them together
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Do...le-1-P127.aspx

[smdwilliams]

Sidd,

Thanks for catching that for me. I originally flipped the choke and ribbed section because I liked the proportions a bit better but have flipped them back based on your catch. I'm attaching a revised screenshot - I don't think I'll need the M2M connector now.

Thanks again,

- J

you need a double male connector between the fluted section and the grooved ribbed section if you want to be able to connect them together
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Do...le-1-P127.aspx

[Rafalema]

Luxeon Rebel is not Luxeon V. Lux V's out of production.

9V for a Hasbro? That thing's propably going up in flames if you do that Go with 2AA holder, and a single trustfire Li-Ion 3.7v and a AA dummy cell to get optimal performance. That's what I'd do.
For a hasbro, you're also going to need a momentary switch. I'm not sure what kinda switch is the switch in your list. Sounds latching from the name, though.

Also, drilling a hole for the switch through the threads is not something many people do, because you run the risk of having your parts stuck and threads damaged if you fail the drilling.


Otherwise, good luck with your build and welcome to the forum & hobby! I'm sure you'll enjoy your stay here.

[smdwilliams]

Rafalema,

I thought that was way too much but using the LED resistor chart using the Blue Luxeon V called for 9v. I've revised my list to use the parts you've recommended. The switch looked the same as the red momentary switch but wasn't labeled one way or the other, but I've substituted the red momentary since I'm putting it under a rubber boot anyways. As for the drill hole, I'll ask Tim for his recommendation. I'd love it where I indicated on the diagram, but know it'll probably have to migrate into the ribbed section.

Thanks so much.

- J

------------------------------------------------------------
HILT ELECTRONICS (REVISED: changes in red)
------------------------------------------------------------

LED
•*Luxeon Rebel Star (Blue)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx
• Luxeon Rebel lens holder
•*Star thermal tape pad
• Heat sink shim for Rebel Stars
•*Luxeon collimator lens 8.7º viewing angle

SOUND
• 2010 Obi-Wan Hasbro soundboard
•*(2) swing sensors
• (1) clash sensor
•*MHS speaker mount V3
• Premium speaker

POWER
• AA dummy cell
•*TrustFire Protected 3.7v 900Ah 14500 Lithium battery (2-pack)
•*2AA battery holder

MISC
•*2ft. dual 18 gauge wire
•*3/32" heatshrink
•*NEED TO GET: TIP42 PNP type transistor


------------------------------------------------------------
SWITCHES:
------------------------------------------------------------
• SPST Momentary switch with red button
• Black rubber switch boot


------------------------------------------------------------
BLADE
------------------------------------------------------------
•*LED "Corbin Style" show blade, 1" OD 36"
•*8/32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw
• Drill and tap service for thumbscrew


------------------------------------------------------------
HILT from pommel to blade holder
------------------------------------------------------------
• MPS insert style #1
• MPS clip
•*MPS pommel style #3v2
• 3" fluted double female threaded connector (PC Flat Black)
•*MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (PC Flat Black)
• MHS choke style #3 (6 holes drilled around midsection)
• Blade holder style #17

Luxeon Rebel is not Luxeon V. Lux V's out of production.

9V for a Hasbro? That thing's propably going up in flames if you do that Go with 2AA holder, and a single trustfire Li-Ion 3.7v and a AA dummy cell to get optimal performance. That's what I'd do.
For a hasbro, you're also going to need a momentary switch. I'm not sure what kinda switch is the switch in your list. Sounds latching from the name, though.

Also, drilling a hole for the switch through the threads is not something many people do, because you run the risk of having your parts stuck and threads damaged if you fail the drilling.


Otherwise, good luck with your build and welcome to the forum & hobby! I'm sure you'll enjoy your stay here.

[Rafalema]

Looks good to me now.

Great design, I believe that you will enjoy doing it!


(BTW, PC'ing only the flutes on the fluted section looks awesome)

[Jedi-Loreen]

Don't forget to also order this service: Machine Standard style switch hole

[smdwilliams]

Jedi-Loreen,

Yep, have it in my cart but not on my list. Everything else look OK to you?

Thanks for your help.

- J

Don't forget to also order this service: Machine Standard style switch hole

[Invisas1979]

You've done all the right things here, getting the right parts together etc. But switch placement is going to be important to how awkward the build will be. Not sure as I've never use a hasbro board but will it sit on a 2aa battery holder?? If it wont the board will need to sit in the ribbed section and there wont be space in the fluted for the switch. A speaker combo is around 3.5 4in in length and you've only got 3in to work with... So where will the switch go?

[smdwilliams]

Invisas1979,

I'm going to put the switch in the ribbed section. I'm not quite sure how this'll all fit together, as it's my first build, but I got the Obi-Wan board as I heard it's the narrowest budget board. If worse comes to worse, I will order a 4" extension if my cram-fu doesn't work out. I'm sure there will be a lot of last minute ordering and posting as I get all the parts in front of me and can physically see what restrictions I need to work around. I'll take the Obi board apart this week but I think I'll need the hilt parts so I can start visualizing how everything will lay out.

- J

You've done all the right things here, getting the right parts together etc. But switch placement is going to be important to how awkward the build will be. Not sure as I've never use a hasbro board but will it sit on a 2aa battery holder?? If it wont the board will need to sit in the ribbed section and there wont be space in the fluted for the switch. A speaker combo is around 3.5 4in in length and you've only got 3in to work with... So where will the switch go?