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Thread: German Padawani needs some Advice :)

  1. #11

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    Hey! Well, looks like there are illum. SPST switches :P Didn't even notice! http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P586.aspx

    So to my understanding, I would have to order another service, the "recessed AV switch hole service" to get this to work. There's only 4 connections on that one, that looks a lot easier! And from what I can see, it'd save me some room in the saber.

    Another thing, these are all momentary. From what I found it in my little research, doesn't that mean the blade is only lit while I press the button?

    I'd like the switch to be lit ONLY when the blade is lit.

    Thanks for the help

    Stig

  2. #12
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    The momentary switches are only used with certain types of sound boards, like from the cheaper toy Hasbro sabers, you won't use one if you're not using that type of sound board, you still need a latching type of switch. Those are only in the Store as DPDT switches. That's why I completely ignored those momentary switches when making my last post.
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  3. #13

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    Oops! Then I'll have to forget about the illuminated switch because all the latching illum. switches are sold out! Hmm, a shame, but that will make my first build easier, and I will have more time to learn more about electronics! Thanks for the help people!
    Is it okay to post my complete list here later?

    After looking through the shop again and looking at some of the diagrams, I've decided to go with a red LED indicator! That I like even more than the Illuminated switch. To get it to light up along with the blade and be turned of while the blade is, I only have to install it "behind" the switch right?
    Also, does anyone know if there is a service for drilling an appropriate hole for the AccLed? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...tor--P114.aspx

    EDIT: After converting the inch dimensions into the for me familiar mm dimensions, I decided to drill myself

    Man, all the electronics stuff I learned in school is coming back Suddenly I understand parallel wiring haha

    Thanks for the quick relpies and the help, this is a great forum!


    Stig

    Alright, here's my updated list:

    Hilt / Main metal parts:
    -Main Hilt Style 2 (guarded switch hole)
    -MPS Pommel 10
    -MHS Choke 2
    -LED Blade Holder 4
    -MPS Insert 12
    -MPS Clip

    Service: Drill & Tap hole for blade ret. screw

    Screws:
    -8-32x.3 Black Thumb Screw

    Electronics:

    -Seoul P4 Kit Green LED / resistor variant
    -SPTS Latching Guarded switch, Red button.
    -RED LED Indicator (Acc.Led2)
    (- Resistor 220 ohm 1/4W)


    As for the blade, I'm not sure yet. I was thinking of a lenght of about 30 inches, as I really hate the handling of such longer blades (MR standard for instance)

    This is what I thought:
    -TCSS Style Showblade 1" OD / 30" length
    -10° Collimator Lens

    I like the TCSS style blade better than the corbin style, is there (as the name suggest) a big difference in Brightness, evenness of the light between the Display blade and the Battle blade?
    I've been looking through the lenses, would the choice of a 10° lens for a 30 inch display blade be right? (Please don't accuse me of laziness, I've read through the tutorials and lens threads, I'm just making sure )

    Thanks a lot,


    Stig
    Last edited by stig; 02-10-2011 at 04:11 PM.

  4. #14
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    The blade choice is really personal preference. I've got a tcss show blade and a Corbin style battle blade. Personally I like how the blade looks better with the tcss one. But still it's apples to oranges as the show blades thinner polycarbonate than the battle blade.
    I think there's quite a bit of trial and error with this hobby till you find what you like. I've revised my build many times already. In fact I'm in the process of tearing apart my first build for the third time because I've decided on another way to organize the guts! The more I look at stuff the grander my plans become.
    It's easy to get carried away with all this!

  5. #15

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    It's easy to get carried away with all this!
    amen dude... That's exactly what I thought!

    Say I use a 5 degree lens... I've heard you need to do some modding to make it fit inside the lens holder. Is it that little...knob that's in the way?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by stig View Post
    amen dude... That's exactly what I thought!

    Say I use a 5 degree lens... I've heard you need to do some modding to make it fit inside the lens holder. Is it that little...knob that's in the way?
    nope - the little knob thingy is needed - you need to sand the edges where the holder clips to it just a bit so the lip isn't quite as thick. takes like 20 seconds and is easy.
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  7. #17

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    Okay thanks! Alright. I'm getting more and more confused with blades. Everybody seems to have a different opinion.
    What I want is a 30" blade, Green P4, that is bright and evenly lit, what blade / lens would you recommend?

    Stig

  8. #18
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    for a 30" blade? either the 5 degree or 8.7 degree lens and probably the TCSS blade if you want pre-made blades.
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

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  9. #19

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    8,7? Isn't 10 the right choice? I thought I read something in the lens thread that if you're using a thin walled blade under 35" to use a 10° lens. Just askin', since only 5° and 10° is selectable in the kit

  10. #20
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    it all really comes down to personal preference. if you go to this thread then you'll get some good info on lens degrees as well. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...g-lens-degrees
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

    Duel - to fight someone 1 on 1. Dual - 2 of something in line with each other.
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