My First Saber

**cardcollector** · 02-08-2011, 08:30 AM

Gotcha xl, I always try to stay on the conservative side of that guideline.. Because the last thing I desire to do is detract from the business of Tcss in any way.

When I get on my main PC, I'll give you some links around the forums....

**Jacen Solo** · 02-08-2011, 10:06 AM

Thanks for the help guys. Followed your links and did some searching of my own and I think I'm just going to forget about the FoC for now. Maybe I'll put in later.

Okay fixed up the latching switch so its only on the positive wire, got rid of the Clash sensor, and the Latching LED Driver is wired in parallel with the MR Soundboard with the 5V regulator wired before the MR board. Can anyone see any problems with it now?

Oh and if anyone could tell me what the mA of a Blue Seoul P4 and also knows where I can get my hands on a 5V regulator that would also be appreciated.

**Jedi-Loreen** · 02-08-2011, 10:43 AM

mAh is not the same as mA.

Milliampere-hours is the current capacity of the batteries at a given output. mA is the amount of current used by a device.

To find the forward voltage and needed current for your LED, go to the Store page and look at the LED Resistor Chart.

**xl97** · 02-08-2011, 10:50 AM

LED Chart & Resistor "Finder" All-In-One:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wi...er/wiring.aspx

**Silver Serpent** · 02-08-2011, 11:45 AM

You'll need to move that latching switch on the diagram again. I gave bad advice in my first post (long weekend and not enough coffee is a bad combination.)

The MR board and the LED driver board each have connection points for a switch. On the LED driver board, they're labeled "SWA" and "SWB". Not sure of the labelling on the MR board. You will want a DPDT latching switch so that you can connect it to both of those boards. X had the switch wiring correct in his diagram.

5V regulators can be found at your local Radio Shack or other electronics supplier. Barring that, Mouser and other online companies have them as well.

**Jacen Solo** · 02-08-2011, 12:42 PM

I was going to solder two wires to a third to make a Y shape and make the single wire go to the switch and then one of the two 'branches' go to the LED and the other to the soundboard. Then do the same for the negatives but wire it to the killswitch/recharge port instead.

Maybe this picture will make it clearer what I'm trying to say

**Silver Serpent** · 02-08-2011, 01:57 PM

I see what you're trying to do, but it won't work the way you think it will. Look closer at the picture for the LED driver.

You will need to attach your red wire to "IN+" and your green wire to "IN-". This will supply power to the board. The board will still need to be turned on via a switch connected to the "SWA" and "SWB" points. The MR board functions in the same manner. It needs power AND switch connections. The boards will not automatically turn on when you supply power.

X · 02-08-2011, 02:34 PM

Originally Posted by xl97

you'll need a CF/power extender to do so...(I believe).. not sure if a MR solution has been had.. maybe Gravy did one?

If I'm reading the description of the new constant current board, it can be used to drive an led but to get FoC, so he'd need 2 drivers. 1 to run the blue die and the other with a clash sensor for FoC on the white die. That's if I'm reading the description right.

@Jacen: You need a DPDT switch. Use one of these http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DP...itch-P435.aspx they look cool and work great.

**Azmaria Dei** · 02-08-2011, 03:03 PM

for FoC you'll need the add-on board, or the new driver board if it supports FoC - haven't played with it yet so i'm not really sure how, if it does. on another note though, the MR board has a 1A driver so using another driver is kinda wasting space in my opinion...