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Thread: My First Saber

  1. #21
    Jedi Knight
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    Azmaria Dei's Avatar
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    seriously, is the only reason you're using the driver board is for the FoC? because as i said, the MR board is an LED driver that puts out 3.5V @1000mA. also, the 5V regulator needs a ground wire coming off of it as well. as for the 3-switch the wires going to the MR board are just the switch wires, right?
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  2. #22
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    I'm planning to upgrade it later on to a FoC. The wires from switch 3 to the MR board are just the switch wires.

    EDIT: Whereabouts would I gound the regulator to?
    Last edited by Jacen Solo; 02-09-2011 at 07:40 AM.

  3. #23
    Jedi Knight
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacen Solo View Post
    I'm planning to upgrade it later on to a FoC. The wires from switch 3 to the MR board are just the switch wires.

    EDIT: Whereabouts would I gound the regulator to?
    the battery negative.
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  4. #24
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the grounding advice. Is this the right way to wire up a DPDT switch?


  5. #25

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    That is the correct way to wire the switch. There's no polarity on the switch itself, so feel free to use the same colored wire if you like. Or use one color for the soundboard, and a different color for the LED driver.
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  6. #26
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    Just out of curiousity what are the NC1 and NC2 terminals for on the switch? Are they the same as NO1 and NO2?

  7. #27
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    NC mean "Normally Closed". Therefore, NO means "Normally Open".

    1 and 2, because you have 2 separate circuits you can turn on and off. That's why it's called a DPDT switch. Double Pole (the 1 and 2) Double Throw (the NO and NC)
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  8. #28
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    Thanks for clearing that up for me Loreen. and thanks also to all the others in this thread who pointed out all the mistakes I made and helped me fix them.

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