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Thread: My First Saber

  1. #1
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    Default My First Saber

    Found this forum a week ago and have been reading it ever since. I'm trying to build rechargeable lightsaber with a MR Luke Skywalker ROTJ Force FX soundboard inside. I'm putting an TCSS LED driver into it with a clash sensor soldered on because I want it to 'flash on clash'. I didn't want to do a MR conversion because I want to have my 'own' lightsaber.

    Here is my sabers parts list

    LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (Haven't decided which length yet)
    Screw on LED blade holder style 12
    MHS choke style 1
    Hilt style 2 with guarded style switch hole
    Double ended male threaded connector2
    Double female threaded connector
    MPS Pommel style 3 v1
    MPS Insert style 3
    MPS Clip
    Several Pieces Painted
    Machined button for Covertec clip
    Covertec clip (Already have this on the way from EBAY because TCSS didn't have any in stock)
    8-32 x 1/4" socket head (For covertec clip)
    8-32 x 3/8" aluminum thumb screw (For Blade holder)

    Soul P4 Blue (Does anyone know what the maH is for the Seoul P4 Blue?)
    SPST Latching Guarded switch with blue button
    Kill plug style 2
    2.1mm Power Jack
    PCB for 7.2V-7.4V Li-ion battery packs
    2 x Li-Ion 14500 Rechargeable AA size 3.7V 900mAh
    Clash Sensor
    Constant current LED driver
    5V regulator (NEED ADVICE FOR THIS PART OF THE SABER! In front of the MR board? Is it the right way to lower the voltage to whatever voltage the board is? Advice on where to get one would also be appreciated.)
    3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger (Maybe)(Does anyone know if this is usable is Australia?)
    2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger

    Heres how I'm going to wire it up (Not an electrician but this is what I came up with. Red is Positive)



    I'm hoping it'll end up similar to this



    I would greatly accept any input from the pros. I don't want to wreck my first saber by not doing something that I should've.

  2. #2

    Default

    Deleted my post, it was full of bad advice.

    Never post after a long weekend full of partying, and before your coffee kicks in.
    Last edited by Silver Serpent; 02-08-2011 at 06:46 AM.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Your latching switch needs to be on ONLY the red wire, or ONLY on the green wire. Not both.

    I haven't worked with the MR boards personally, so I don't know their voltage ranges, but I don't recall seeing any MR board diagrams with a 5V regulator.

    I don't see anything else wrong with it, but let some of the more experienced builders chime in before you start soldering.
    Okay. I have not used the new driver for any builds yet, so I cannot give advice on that. As for the 5V regulator, it is needed if you are going with the 7.4V li-ion pack because more than 5-6volts will fry a MR board.

    Does the driver need a certain amount of voltage, becuase if not you could get by with a single 3.7V lion running the board and a blue P4 and no 5V regulator?

    Also, why do you want a latching switch after the recharge port? The port acts as your kill key, so the switch seems unnecessary.
    Formerly known as Polarcupz

    "I think, therefore I am. I destroy, therefore I endure."

  4. #4

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    Be sure you get the LED driver with the latching configuration instead of momentary as well, since it comes in two diferent types.
    Last edited by Silver Serpent; 02-08-2011 at 06:47 AM. Reason: Not enough coffee when I posted earlier.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    From what I have learn there are some problems with the wiring. I used an MR board and an old corban driver together before.

    1.You can't get Flash On Clash unless you have a multi-die led so take out the clash sensor.
    2.You'll need a DPDT latching switch so you'll have one circuit for the driver board and one for the MR so no power leads to the switch.
    I did a quick rework of your diagram.

    Also I haven't used a ROTJ board but I know it uses 6 AA batteries that equals 9v so you may not have to use the 5v reg. (Maybe someone else who has used that board before can chime in.)
    Hope it helps.

    Last edited by X; 02-07-2011 at 02:16 PM.

  6. #6
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by X View Post
    1.You can't get Flash On Clash unless you have a multi-die led so take out the clash sensor.

    What is a multi-die LED?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacen Solo View Post
    What is a multi-die LED?
    its an LED/STAR with more than one DIE (led/light) under the dome..

    if you see an RGB LED.. you will see it has 3 dies (tiny led) under the dome/bubble..

    or an RGBA/W will have 4 dies under the dome..


  8. #8
    Board Lurker Jacen Solo's Avatar
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    Default

    Where can I get a RGB/W LED?

    Edit: And Say I used the Blue from the RGB/W. Where would I wire in the white for the 'flash on clash'
    Last edited by Jacen Solo; 02-08-2011 at 07:25 AM.

  9. #9
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Default

    googling will help you out a lot. Ledengine is one thing you can google.

    Searching around here will also give you some answers.
    Last edited by cardcollector; 02-08-2011 at 08:31 AM.
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
    ~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt

    SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...

  10. #10

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    you dont even need to leave the confines of 'this' forum to get your answers.. so internal linking is ok =)

    and you'll need a CF/power extender to do so...(I believe).. not sure if a MR solution has been had.. maybe Gravy did one? (off the top of my head)

    not sure if a stand-alone solution has been worked out either.. (perhaps?)

    actually here are some links that may be of some help.. read through them.. see the questions and answers by all..


    *LEDengin 10W (hint hint)
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-10W-questions

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ht=flash+clash

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...power+extender
    Last edited by xl97; 02-08-2011 at 08:38 AM.

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