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Thread: 3/4" led string blade,what I need for it?

  1. #11

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    I would like to know the specs of makoto's leds.
    Lots of guys tell about candela,but what I don't understand,if a big candela power and a very small emission angle,the total light in lumen is very small,no?
    So what would be the best choice between 33000 mcda at 15° and 1000 mcda at 170°?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    He used some secretsauce uber super duper sun bright LEDs that put a Makoto to shame....
    When it gets too bright to outshine Sloth, you know you've gone too far
    Actually he used some LEDs from Mouser electronics that I recommended to him after I tried them out. The Mouser part # is 630-HLMP-CM34-X1000
    You can see the ones I used in the saber on the left of this shot:
    (along with the red versions of those LEDs, part # 630-HLMP-Eg2A-XY0DD on the right).

    Much, much brighter and more evenly lit than the normal FX blades in the center two. Though... the green ones suck so much juice that the PLI on that saber never gets above the lowest yellow light. I'm probably going to switch the resistor on it to the next lowest voltage one, even though it's a 4.8v saber with the 4.8v resistor on the PLI.
    Last edited by Grackle; 01-28-2011 at 06:23 PM.

  3. #13

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    is the vader on?
    really not as bright as the one on the right....
    Who made the OB1ep1,seems it's quite good,not as good as the Z one(too thick inside tube on handle),but quite good!
    I really like this saber!

    You have the specs of these leds,especially candela brightness,and nominal current.
    I would know them to make idea of lumen brightness...
    If 30000mcda at 45°,would give a big 14 lm brightness....if at 20mA,just 60 leds will give 840lm,unbelivablely awesome...
    For the moment the best I have find is 5,9lm at 20mA...
    My idea was to drive about 63 leds with a Mr board,feeded with 4 ni-mh cells to 4,8v
    I would group all 6 grounds in only one for the led string,because of removable blade with RCA connexion,and battle ready saber.
    Other idea was to make a 3 grounds for the blade,one using one ground of the board,other using two,and the last using the 3 last grounds,to have a ingnition effect,but to have a relatively strong blade.
    however it won't be possible with my furst custom saber and a 3/4" blade,because of really narrow handle.
    In fact I 'm not sure I will make this saber now,because I have find better tube,same,but larger^^.
    I don't really like the 1" blades,too large,but I have received my parks 3/4" blade,and it's not very rigid,even it's 0.125" walled.
    The best would be 1" bottom and 3/4" top conical blades,to be more "screen accurate",and keep best balance,and aesthetics.
    I would try something to obtain this result,but I think it will be very difficult.
    I really hope it will work,I would make my first lightsaber,then a true graflex and a Russ OB1 are waiting for their electronics^^

  4. #14
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    The Obi-wan is a Hasbro FX saber with an original stock blade.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    The Obi-wan is a Hasbro FX saber with an original stock blade.
    Yup, and yes, the Vader is turned on. The one beside it is just that bright! I'm lucky I got that Obi-Wan TPM when I did, as everyplace I looked had stopped carrying them except for Lucasfilm's Star Wars store... and a short time after I placed my order there, it disappeared off that website too... close call.

    parfaitelumiere, good luck with your Russ Rep Obi-Wan... I'm in the middle of building one too, already have Russ's pommel and booster here, and I'm waiting to get my Emitter and Grenade in a few weeks when he is done with his current run of them. Already talked to Slothfurnace about having him mill me a blade holder and battery holder/spacer just like his so I can finish mine just like his.

  6. #16

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    Wow,it's possible to have a blade holder form sloth?
    Interesting.
    I don't know exactly the internal diameter of emitter,but it would be great to put blade inside.
    I'm waiting for grenade and emitter,like you^^
    I'm waiting for another pommel,I have one,but I want another to polish myself(It's my job...) ad modify the cap,to install sound,then will have a layer of chrome.
    I would ask to a freind for true inconel emitter replica,will depend on his price.
    For the moment I have pommel,booster,clamp and bubble strip.
    I think all electronics will definitemy go in the grenade(4 AAA and yoda board) will leave place for crystal chamber under the clamp.
    If it's possible to have one from Sloth,would be great!

  7. #17
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    Guys, let's please not talk about people other than Tim making or modifying parts for you.

    Remember, these forums are part of Tim's Store, so have some respect for him. Take it off the boards, if you want to talk about that.
    Sloth respects Tim, and doesn't talk about this sort of thing here, himself.

    Thanks.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
    TCSS MODERATOR


    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

  8. #18

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    parfaitelumiere,

    To directly answer your original question, you can do a 3/4" makoto blade. You can see the one I did here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...996-Mace-Windu
    I used a thickwall nylon blade, and wrapped the 5mm LED's in foam, but with what I'm sure was at least partially due to my uneven soldering, the blade is not perfectly even. The advantage of using a larger diameter blade is that you have more space to get the light from LED's properly diffused.


    Those who have earned the right to boast have no need to.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    Guys, let's please not talk about people other than Tim making or modifying parts for you.

    Remember, these forums are part of Tim's Store, so have some respect for him. Take it off the boards, if you want to talk about that.
    Sloth respects Tim, and doesn't talk about this sort of thing here, himself.

    Thanks.
    You have no idea how much I wish Tim made movie accurate thin neck chokes

    (they'd be half the price of Russ's and you wouldn't have to wait over a year to get them)

    Speaking of which, since the Mako V3s are perpetually unavailable, maybe the LEDs I gave the part #'s for here would be a good replacement? The company that makes them (Avago Tech) sells them by specific bin (those part #'s are for a specific binning for vf, current, and hue/brightness), maybe he can see about getting them in stock here? I'd love for more options for making string sabers...



    (everyone always takes pics of their lux-style sabers in dark rooms so their glow will show up... I can hold mine right under the kitchen overheads and it still looks good )

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grackle View Post
    (everyone always takes pics of their lux-style sabers in dark rooms so their glow will show up... I can hold mine right under the kitchen overheads and it still looks good )
    you mean like this?
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

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