Hasbro FX Board with Removable Blade Diagram

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Since there are so many differences with the Hasbro FX Board with Removable Blade, I thought a new wiring diagram is in order. It seems everything we were used to with the fixed blade FX board has been changed. Also, the pololu and lighthound boards will not work with this board. I spent 2 hours figuring that out. I used the same pololu board on a Yoda FX and it worked fine. The problem is with the removable bladed FX board switching the - instead of the + like the fixed blade ones do. The first thing I did was get rid of all the hot glue and resolder all the wires I needed myself. Hasbro has been known for sloppy soldering. Anyway, here is the diagram with a recharge port, illuminated AV switch, remote clash sensor and a single 18650 Li-Ion battery.





Here is a pic of the back side of the board. I jumpered the pre to the gnd and also I took a 2" piece of stripped wire, pre-tinned it and soldered it on L1 - L6. That way you don't have a bunch of wires in the way.

[cannibal869]

Thanks Rhyen! This is great!

Thanks Rhyen!

[dgdve]

Excellent tut Rhyen, very informative and straight to the point... So what your basically saying is, ONLY latching/slide type switches will work with this board? (for now)

[Rhyen Skytracker]

All of the FX boards have always used the latching switches. But with the older ones you could use the lighthond or pololu boards to convert a momentary switch to latching. With this new FX board you can't use those.

[dgdve]

Yep thx for the clarification

[RattleHornet]

Is this circuit correct?

[redeyejedi]

Since there are so many differences with the Hasbro FX Board with Removable Blade, I thought a new wiring diagram is in order. It seems everything we were used to with the fixed blade FX board has been changed. Also, the pololu and lighthound boards will not work with this board. I spent 2 hours figuring that out. I used the same pololu board on a Yoda FX and it worked fine. The problem is with the removable bladed FX board switching the - instead of the + like the fixed blade ones do. The first thing I did was get rid of all the hot glue and resolder all the wires I needed myself. Hasbro has been known for sloppy soldering. Anyway, here is the diagram with a recharge port, illuminated AV switch, remote clash sensor and a single 18650 Li-Ion battery.





Here is a pic of the back side of the board. I jumpered the pre to the gnd and also I took a 2" piece of stripped wire, pre-tinned it and soldered it on L1 - L6. That way you don't have a bunch of wires in the way.

It looks like the resistor in this diagram is for the illuminated AV switch. Where would you put a resistor with a 6V 4AAA battery pack and a standard switch?

[redeyejedi]

Will the board fry with 6V 4AAA battery pack set-up? Where do I put a resistor to prevent the board from frying?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Will the board fry with 6V 4AAA battery pack set-up? Where do I put a resistor to prevent the board from frying?

You wouldn't use a resistor for that, you'd use a voltage regulator. If these boards are anything like the older versions, though, you might not need one anyway. 6 volts is usually fine with these, but I have yet to use one myself. I'd recommend using a 5 volt regulator to be safe. You can usually get those at Radio Shack, if you have one near you. In the diagram, the regulator would go between the battery pack and the sound board, or if you use a recharge port, between the port and the sound board.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

6 Volts is the absolute limit and even with 6 Volts I have had one board fry. If your power source is over 6 Volts I recommend using a 5 Volt voltage regulator. I have since figured out a way that should allow us to use the pololu board with the removable blade boards, but it would need a SSR (solid state relay). I will post results as soon as I get a chance to test it. Basically what I am doing is using the SSR relay to swap the polority of the switch circuit so that it will work with the pololu board.