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Thread: Seoul P4 With USv2.5 Battery Solution

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    Jedi Initiate Loachri MacTalabh's Avatar
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    Default Seoul P4 With USv2.5 Battery Solution

    I could not find any threads that discuss a battery solution for a Seoul P4 (Green) running off a USv2.5. I also want to run a LED and possibly a rumble motor from a cell phone on the same circuit, (bridged off on their own path). I do want it to be in-hilt rechargeable, with protected cells (if possible). What do you recommend?

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    Nimh 4.8v.

    The Ultrasound boards are bad at cutting off the extra voltage. So you need LED + 1v roughly.

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    Jedi Initiate Loachri MacTalabh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    Nimh 4.8v.

    The Ultrasound boards are bad at cutting off the extra voltage. So you need LED + 1v roughly.
    So what you are saying is; If operating voltage is 3.25v + 1v = 4.25v? I want two 5mm LEDs on the same circuit. Would that change anything? I would like to run Lithium-ion Batteries (Protected if possible) with a recharge port. Would this solution work, TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery (2-Pack)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Loachri MacTalabh View Post
    So what you are saying is; If operating voltage is 3.25v + 1v = 4.25v? I want two 5mm LEDs on the same circuit. Would that change anything? I would like to run Lithium-ion Batteries (Protected if possible) with a recharge port. Would this solution work, TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery (2-Pack)
    wired in series, that would give you 7.2V nominal, 8.4V max charge. wired in parallel for double the runtime, that would give you 3.7V nominal, 4.2V max charge. i would actually recommend either using a single protected Li-Ion 18650, or 4 NiMH.

    using those Li-Ion batteries in a pair will vary my recommendation on wether you use in-hilt or out of hilt recharge. in-hilt - single PCB between 2 unprotected cells. out of hilt - 2 protected cells.
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    Jedi Initiate Loachri MacTalabh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azmaria Dei View Post
    wired in series, that would give you 7.2V nominal, 8.4V max charge. wired in parallel for double the runtime, that would give you 3.7V nominal, 4.2V max charge. i would actually recommend either using a single protected Li-Ion 18650, or 4 NiMH.

    using those Li-Ion batteries in a pair will vary my recommendation on wether you use in-hilt or out of hilt recharge. in-hilt - single PCB between 2 unprotected cells. out of hilt - 2 protected cells.
    Azmaria, thanks for all the help you have given me. Trust me it is appreciated. Now, I am aiming for In-hilt recharging, so do I use two Li-Ion 14500 3.7V 900mAh unprotected cells with the PCB? if not, What cell should I use? Sorry if this thread sounds repetitive, I just want to be clear and have the right solution.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Loachri MacTalabh View Post
    Azmaria, thanks for all the help you have given me. Trust me it is appreciated. Now, I am aiming for In-hilt recharging, so do I use two Li-Ion 14500 3.7V 900mAh unprotected cells with the PCB? if not, What cell should I use? Sorry if this thread sounds repetitive, I just want to be clear and have the right solution.
    i haven't messed with the US boards at all, but i've found a single 18650 cell to be plenty for everything i've thrown them at. and with a single cell, you can just get the protected ones. using 2 in series gives you a fair bit of extra voltage that i hear the US board isn't good with getting rid of. if it were MY saber, i would try the single Li-Ion 18650 cell and see how that does. if not as good as i would like, then i would swap to 4 AAA NiMH, and leave the dual Li-Ions for last.
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    Did I say Li-Ion?
    You WILL burn your board if you use 7.4v, and you WILL damage your board by underpowering it with 3.7v.

    The 2.5 has a very bad way of getting rid of the extra voltage, which ends up heating up your board, damaging it. If you had a 2.1 you could use more voltage.
    The Ultrasound in general is a buggy board, and really not worth the effort. Rather use an MR board with the LED driver in the store for the same price or less depending on where you get the board.

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    oh yeah... i forgot to mention that i would NEVER use a US board as well... i would use a taco and a ham sandwich for sound first...
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    Jedi Initiate Loachri MacTalabh's Avatar
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    Post My Solution

    AHHHH! If I weren't losing my hair, I would be pulling it out. Next time I will try to find a MR board or play the gambit and try to get a CF from Erv. So I will use 4 AAA NiMH @ 4.8v.
    Skottsaber and Azmaria, Thank you, you don't know what it means.

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    i still think that a taco and a ham sandwich for sound would be a rather nifty approach to it all. ^_^ have you ever talked to a well made taco? they can be quite talkative. ^_^
    CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR ECONO SOUND BOARD WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDS!

    Duel - to fight someone 1 on 1. Dual - 2 of something in line with each other.
    Quote Originally Posted by Multiple People
    To Azmaria listen you should...

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