Help for my First Saber Eletronic parts

[FavaSSJ5]

Hello, im new here
i live im brazil, and i want to make my first saber
i already have one from ultrasabers

i want to buy only the essential parts to make the saber or else is cheaper to buy one already constructed

im going to construct the hilt with the things i found here, like pvc sink tube

so i make a list the things i want to buy
let me know if i really need all or something is missing
thanks

4AA Battery holder
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
3.3ohm 5w resistor
Push on/push off switch with black button
Luxeon III/P4 Lens Holder
Star thermal tape pad
Heat Sink shim for Rebel stars

that is for the eletronic parts

and for the blade, i think its all this

Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tip with reflective disc
Blade film (Single wrap, 1" Thick walled)
40" LED blade diffuser for 1" thick walled blades
1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

i want the blade for battle

im right?

thanks

[dgdve]

you will not need the "Heat Sink Shim for rebel stars". you only need that if you use a rebel star Led but you are using a p4 so you dont need it.
you WILL NEED a Heat Sink and some sort of blade holder. I'll look over your list when I have more time but I think thats it, I hope that helps

[cardcollector]

No heatsink shim

You will need a BH holder though

Make sure your switch is latching.

[Jedi-Loreen]

The Push-on-Push-off momentary switch acts like a latching switch. I keep trying to tell people that.

[dgdve]

The Push-on-Push-off momentary switch acts like a latching switch. I keep trying to tell people that.

Thats the old school switch and YES she's correct (as always). I'm sure CardCollector read it as if he were using an AV type switch (not many actually use the slide or older push on/off switch with the rubber boot anymore.. So your both correct, Yes he needs a latching type switch, and Yes the switch he has chosen does act as a latching(its been confirmed many times).

But yeah No shim, add Blade holder (which will come with a heat sink for your LED)

I hope this helps

[cardcollector]

I'm sure CardCollector read it as if he were using an AV type switch (not many actually use the slide or older push on/off switch with the rubber boot anymore.. So your both correct, Yes he needs a latching type switch, and Yes the switch he has chosen does act as a latching(its been confirmed many times). helps

Yeah, I wasnt thinking about the basic switch...

Sorry for not clarifying...

[FavaSSJ5]

i was looking for this kit here, that sells in the store
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...cs-Kit-P6.aspx
but the led is out of stock
so i was looking the leds from the luxeon site
but there are diferents leds, which one is the right?
what mean the "lm" numbers?

thanks

[RevengeoftheSeth]

lm means 'lumens', or the brightness of the LED (as relative to the other LEDs of the same brand). Lumen ratings are sometimes relative to the brand for which they are named and are independantly rated by each manufacturer. So, don't get wrapped around it too much. Typically, you are more concerned with how many 'watts' the LED is so you can focus more on how you are going to power the LED. The average LED that we use is a 3W LED, which lives very happily between 2.5 and 3.9V (typical, depending on the color) and uses somewhere between 700 and 1400mA.

To give you an idea about how much power that is, a regular alkaline battery is 1.5V and 1000mAh (milliamps per hour). A Li-Ion 18650 cell (about 1/3 longer and 1/4 fatter than a AA battery) puts out 3.7V (4.2V max charge) and 2500mAh.

Tim only sells the brightest of each LED type, but the bin (shade of color within a particular color) is random because manufacturers don't like to sell specific bins in less than groups of 1000.

He may be out of stock right now, because the Halloween and Christmas rush probably took a big toll on his inventory, but he should be restocked shortly after the first of the year. He's trying to catch up on orders until after Christmas for right now.

He is an extremely fast, shipper. So if you plan on ordering through someone else, keep in mind that by the time he gets them back in stock and ships them, you may have them before you get them from someone else.

[cardcollector]

@ Revenge of the Seth- That LED is out of stock because it is no longer being produced. So unless TCSS is releasing in batches, it probably won't be available for purchase again.
The difference between all those LED's are simply the effecincy of the LED. Meaning that it will give off greater Lumens because it is mroe efficient.
The LM means the lumen output- or how bright the LED when driven at full power.

If you could remove the link that would be great, because TCSS sells the same products and we wouldn't want to take away business from TCSS now would we? I can understand your pusting though, since you LED is out of stock.

I personally wouldn't use the LUX III, I have before and it isn't my favorite. I would use a LEDengine, because it is a better orange IMO. Some googling will find it for you...

This thread should help you in future reference in LEDs you can use...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ightness-Chart

[FavaSSJ5]

so which led is better?
the one that sells on the TCSS is good?
or recomend another?