Won't be the first I make....

**sev95** · 12-03-2010, 01:24 AM

I have decided to jump on the bandwagon and try my hand at constructing a lightsaber. I wanted to go with this design

with this coloring (and the mara jade style thing is actually a double female 4" connector)

so the parts list is:

1: Screw on blade holder style 17
2: 4" double female grooved connector
3: 24 1/8" button head screws
4: Ribbed v-grooved extension
5: choke style 1 short
6: Seoul P4 LED kit red
7: Pommel style 4
8: Pommel clip
9: Pommel insert style 12
10: D-ring belt mount
11: 3/38 Allen wrench
12: Machine Standard style switch hole location: 1 1/4" from edge of 4" double female grooved connector.
13: LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches) rounded end
14: 8-32 x .3" anodized thumb screw
15: Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) location: Blade retention screw, blade holder style 17.
16: Extension Powder Coating (RGR3) Color: Black Matte Tuscan (Flat Black)
17: Hasbro econ board (and it's junk)
18: 1/8" Heatshrink
and I believe that that is done. What do you think. I am probably going to save this build for my third saber. Thanks for looking!!

**sev95** · 12-03-2010, 08:12 AM

BTW can I use electrical tap instead of heatshrink?

**Jay-gon Jinn** · 12-03-2010, 08:14 AM

you can, but heatshrink lasts longer....electrical tape gets warm and eventually oozes adhesive all over everything making quite a mess inside your saber. It can also fall off the wires, causing a short.

**JamoUp** · 12-03-2010, 08:15 AM

no. electrical tape is not a substitute for heat shrink.

**sev95** · 12-03-2010, 09:16 AM

Then should the heatshrink be adhesive or regular?

**JamoUp** · 12-03-2010, 09:18 AM

it doesn't matter, i use regular.

**Jedi-Loreen** · 12-03-2010, 12:25 PM

I personally don't like using the adhesive in saber wiring. It's actually more for use on wiring that may be exposed to moisture, to keep the solder joints water proof.