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Thread: Part Painting and Baking Tutorial

  1. #21
    Jedi Initiate Loachri MacTalabh's Avatar
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    Question; Wouldn't baking the painted part make the paint bubble, and is it paint for metal?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loachri MacTalabh View Post
    Question; Wouldn't baking the painted part make the paint bubble, and is it paint for metal?
    as you can see in the pictures it doesn't bubble. and the spraypaint i use is multi-surface. keep in mind that i used primer first as well.
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  3. #23

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    Can you use airbrush paint like this as well?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rathan View Post
    Can you use airbrush paint like this as well?
    i don't see why not as long as you have a primer basecoat. i've used brushes and regular acrylics on a lot of things and it works well between the primer and clearcoat. i think i would stay away from vinyl paints though - they might melt...
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  5. #25

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    I don't mean to necropost, but this is a sticky afterall....

    Do you guys generally bake the primer or just the paint and clear layers?

  6. #26
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    if i hand paint the piece, i bake the primer as well, otherwise i wait for a later coat.
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  7. #27
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    Outstanding tutorial to read! Obviously I'm still new so I'll leave the complicated painting/powder coating to the professionals. However, how do you paint a part to look as if it is charred or worn in?

    Thanks for this tutorial, it'll help me out a lot with some of my other pieces!

    --CpM

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by IceRed Ronin View Post
    Outstanding tutorial to read! Obviously I'm still new so I'll leave the complicated painting/powder coating to the professionals. However, how do you paint a part to look as if it is charred or worn in?

    Thanks for this tutorial, it'll help me out a lot with some of my other pieces!

    --CpM
    Generally, you would do something like use Aluminum Black (google it), and apply with a Q-Tip to the crevices and recesses of the piece, then get some 000 steel wool and scrub down the whole piece to take the black off the raised portions and lighten the edges.

    With paint, it's just as easy.

    Primer, base coat and bake your paint, just as described earlier in this sticky. Ensure the piece has fully cured before continuing.
    Then, take some flat black (for cool colors like green or blue) or flat brown (for warm colors like red and orange) spray paint and spray a huge thick coat at point-blank range on the part.
    Quickly wipe the piece down with a clean piece of rag (old t-shirts work well) to remove the paint from the high points on the piece, leaving the wet paint in the recesses.
    Bake again to set your "weathering"

    This is how we weather our Mjolnir armor in the 405th (obviously without the baking step), and it looks fantastic when done.

    Additionally, if you have the time and interest to try electro-etching (see the sticky here on the forums), don't worry about setting a pattern, just wipe the piece down quickly with a rag to remove any surface dirt, then dunk the whole thing in the solution for just a little bit. It will cause some wonderful pitting and scarring of the metal piece, which will provide great detail when your black/brown weathering paint is applied.
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  9. #29
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    Outstanding! Thanks a lot!! I look forward to practicing my painting! I've already started designing my 2nd saber and I plan on trying this part of the build process on it.

    Again Thanks! Everyone here on the forums has so much knowledge, I can't wait to dig up some more design ideas. Truly a source of great knowledge.

    --CpM

  10. #30

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    Question...lets say i use this method and do a twice over baking on parts...will mhs sleeve material or 1.5" sink tube stil slide over? If so will it scratch the paint or is this method of color coating parts pretty scratch-resistant? I ask because another forum said that if i was going to use a shroud over mhs the shop would have to taper down the parts before shipping...is this still the case with this tutorial?
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