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Thread: Part Painting and Baking Tutorial

  1. #71

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    Ahh yes i remember that kit....but if memory serves that kit was not cheap...( i did like it tho...swapping heads was way faster and way cool...lol then taking it apart and swapping tips and needles.)


    He was offering him a cheap way of using the Testors brushed enamel paint because using a brush to apply paint for baking is not a good idea.

  2. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhoenixHawk View Post
    Ahh yes i remember that kit....but if memory serves that kit was not cheap...( i did like it tho...swapping heads was way faster and way cool...lol then taking it apart and swapping tips and needles.)


    He was offering him a cheap way of using the Testors brushed enamel paint because using a brush to apply paint for baking is not a good idea.
    No initially when in the wood kit like this it was a $150 range is I remember correctly. But they started selling listened versions with 2 needle kits; craftsman I think, and a plastic cased version with 3 needles for I think $40 range. Then I saw them in harbor freight and Walmart for $20 then they were gone.

  3. #73

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    is baking required? Or is it just a quicker way to speed up the "curing" (not sure if thats even the right word) Process?

  4. #74

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    Baking is not required, but it speeds up the drying time. It seems to give a slightly more durable finish as well.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #75

  6. #76

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    I know this is a slightly older topic, but has anyone done any trials of durability for baked and non-baked parts?
    I have used rattle cans a lot (for metal car models) and never had any problems with chipping or flaking when my kids play with them, and never used baking.
    This forumn also seems to share the "if it doesn't call for baking, then you are just speeding up drying time" theory: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforu...?topic=35551.0

    However, I understand sabers are handled a lot more than most parts, so i was curious if anyone tried a baked and a non-baked approach to check any durability issues.

  7. #77

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    Hi just throwing in 2 cents.
    I supervise the paint shop for an aerospace and defense company.
    I can tell you that baking, unless it's a coating system that requires it, is not necessary.
    Assuming your parts are primed and prepped correctly, baking only speeds up your time to touch.
    Basically it will "dry" them faster so you can use them. "Curing" cannot be sped up in this way, and will take about a week.

    When you fly, know that lots and lots of those parts never touched an oven.
    -Darkmatter73

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