How to get rid of the economy board flash on clash.

[airsoftmode]

So someone on the fx forums came up with a way to get around the flash on clash feature on the economy boards, and actually turn it into a flicker effect.

He accomplished this using a dp3t slider switch, with the bottom position being full off, the middle position used as a momentary switch to power the board and led, and the top switch being a direct driven output to the led.

He used one power source in his set up, and he was using a spiderman board, but the idea is applicable to an economy board. This is how I thought it could be applied.


Use 2 2aaa battery holders, a hasbro 2010 soundboard, a premium speaker.

Wire the first 2aaa battery holder directly to the led, using the top position on the switch. Then wire the second 2aaa battery holder to the soundboard and instead of using a pnp transistor, just run the board led leads to the second set of contacts on the led, wire the middle contacts on the sliding switch for the momentary switch for the board.

The output on the soundboard is not nearly enough to drive the led by itself, so when it would usually flash on and off, instead of the blade dying, it will flicker like the video of the spiderman board.

I need to double check the board output voltage for the soundboard, and a resistor may need to be used between the board outputs and the led, but this a set up that will fit in a 1.24 id hilt, and doesn't require special batteries.

This will eliminate the flash on and off, and should turn the flash on clash, to a flicker on clash.

Obviously using the same sliding switch method that was pioneered in the spartan saber.

I believe they also make toggle switches of the same type that cannibal used, which can be terrible for a saber as they can snap off quite easily, but if shortened, or put in the pommel, it should work admirably.

I really can't express enough how great an idea cannibal introduced with his dual power source, sliding switch method, the new 2010 economy board with a good speaker and resonance chamber, sound great, and this discovery turns their only major shortcoming, into a feature only before seen on premium soundboards.

Here is a link to his original post, and to his truly gorgeous modified MHS hilt.

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=27378.0

[iamdrake]

It is as if I have seen this saber here on this board... oh ya I did. It seems like great info though.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yeah, it's posted right here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ar-Jedi-Sabers

Speaking of flickering, your signature image makes me feel like I'm going to go have a seizure, Phil. Not that you'll probably even come back and look at this thread.

[Skottsaber]

Speaking of flickering, your signature image makes me feel like I'm going to go have a seizure, Phil. Not that you'll probably even come back and look at this thread.

Ouch...
Whatever happened to reconciliation?

[equinox13]

i wire the soundboard separate from the LED so that i have a stunt with optional sound setup. here's the diagram i use.

[Ingchao]

I don't know much about much, but is your diagram missing a line from the positive of the recharge port?

[Skottsaber]

It is.
It needs a line to board pos.
Nice catch

[equinox13]

looks like it's there to me. >_>

[airsoftmode]

i wire the soundboard separate from the LED so that i have a stunt with optional sound setup. here's the diagram i use.

That is an excellent application as well, but it won't flicker on clash, since the led is only being direct driven.

If you use direct driven, and board driven in concert, the flash on clash, and flash on off will change to a flicker, and the blade will stay lit constantly.

And you can play around with the flicker intensity, but varying your resistor between the power source and the led, and between the board and the led.

[equinox13]

for that you'll need an RGB or similar LED - Cannibal did something like that with a green goblin board.

i'm not fond of flicker on clash either... i'll continue holding out for Skott's FD 1.0 for now.