Alkaline's aren't all that bad (in my opinion). They don't hold full power for very long, though.
Alkaline's aren't all that bad (in my opinion). They don't hold full power for very long, though.
batteries of any sort seem to be rather hard to get rid of in japan... i say, if you can get rechargables to start with, do so.
Now known as Azmaria Dei
i really need "meow on clash" mya! =^_^=
duel - to fight someone 1 on 1
dual - 2 of something in line with each other
Thank you.
I feel NiMH(eneloop) little darker than Alkaline when driving a converted FX saber.
Four NiMH is very enough when driving my MHS saber.
Full power light of Luxeon is very beautiful !
To driving HyperDyne Saber-SD with TCSS LED driver needs high voltage, so,I decided to order Li-ion batteries.
Saber-SD is a very difficult board for using single LED.
電池にやさしく、安くて良いサウンドカードが欲しいですね。
Hi,this thread comes very handy for a question:
I want to build my first saber and I have read here that it is a good idea to use a 1000mA BuckPuck to protect the LED. However, those Buckpucks need a minimum of 5V source. If I want to use rechargeable batteries, my only options are:
- Use a 7.2-7.4 AA Li-Ion battery pack.
- Use 8 AAA NiMh 1.2V (that is 9.6V total) batteries on a 8 battery holder. This option is tricky as it may not fit on my hilt.
Is that right? Are there any other options?.
Thanks in advance.
Hi, erahard.
I use 1000mA buckpuck with Luxeon3 cyan, hasbro 2010 electronic saber board, and these are driving by 4AAA NiMH rechargable batteries(4.8v total).
It is enough bright. But capacity of each batteries are 750 mAh(3000mAh total). lose brightness soon(1-2 hours).
I'd rather like to use Alkaline than NiMH, because Alkaline is brighter.
If you wire the battery pack to put out 4.8V, the capacity is still only 750mAh.
If you wire it to put out 3000mAh, the voltage would only be 1.2V.
Oh, I made mistake.
Thanks for pointed out the mistakes.
If you really want to use NiMH you can wire 5 or 6 of them in series. I wired 6 AAA NiMH for a Lux V and US 2.5. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/....php?f=3&t=107 I placed the soundboard on top of the battery pack that only had 2 batteries and it worked great. I now use the Li-Ions a lot. You can use a single Li-Ion with an Economy board and FX board with great results.
Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php
Actually, this isn't 100% correct... it is possible to find Li-Ion cells with NO PROTECTION. So beware, folks. Make CERTAIN that you either wire up your own PCB, or one is pre-wired/built-in. It's the safety circuit, and very necessary.
People might wonder WHY would there be unprotected cells floating around? Well, if you wish to make your own pack (for example 3 x 3.7v for a more "11.1v" pack), you could get the individual cells and wire up your own PCB. Or maybe you're just replacing a dead cell. But whatever the case... it's my recommendation that people DO NOT wire up their own PCBs unless they specifically know why they are doing it, and the special details as well (such as "matching" cells for current voltage/capacity PRIOR to connecting the PCB).
Anyhow... so... yes, Li-Ion cells CAN be bought "bare"... so beware.
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I think he meant that they SHOULD all have PCB's (as-in they are recommended to have them... or else!) attached to them in some form. But you are both right, never use or charge a Li-Ion cell without some sort of protection (whether it be on the cell or in the charger).
If you want to see what happens to an unprotected cell when it gets overcharged, there are plenty of videos on Youtube Just search for 'overcharging battery'.
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