P4 - 2010 wiring check

[Gin Malinko]

ok so i think i fixed the problem. all i did was add lithium batteries.



here it is with an orange filter.



and this one is with a blue green filter and in an extremely bright room.



now the only problem is the hilt seems to get really hot......if its not one thing lol

[Arkhan]

much much more like it.

glad you found the issue.

[equinox13]

between the LED, transistor, 5V regulator and resistor/buckpuck, that is a lot of heat to content with. fortunately it's all inside of a rather nice aluminum tube that can act as a heatsink. ^_^

[Knighthammer]

So from looking at the diagrams and what not, it looks like your driving the board directly off 6v's of battery's? This is working ok?

[Gin Malinko]

im following the diagram the was suggested to use in the first reply of this thread. the one i posted was drawn incorrectly.

[Knighthammer]

Good deal - thanks!

[Gin Malinko]

does anyone know if this diagram will drain the batteries? i put in 4 aaa lithiums lastnight, and they are now pretty much dead, is this because i dont have a resistor?

[equinox13]

you don't have a resistor? O.o

[Skottsaber]

They shouln't have drained unless you left it on all night, but the 2010 boards have power off, so... I'm stumped.
You don't have any shorts in your electronics that might be draining the cells?

[Arkhan]

the AAA lithiums should be good for 30 minutes, maybe more, of constant runtime. The reason they're so much brighter than alkalines is that they support a very high discharge rate.

The advanced lithiums should discharge constant at 1A and peak at 1500ma. The ultimate lithiums should discharge constant at 1500ma.

Take into consideration that they have about 900-1000mah worth of charge, and you're looking in the 30min - 1 hour range of constant use.

AAA, while they fit easily in saber hilts, are unfortunately lacking in capacity.

However, as folks have said, the saber should shut itself off after a very short time if you aren't moving it around or clashing it.