Soundboard question

[Jhadious Aran]

hey all, i have a question that peaked my curiosity... couple of years ago when the wife and i were at disney world, we stopped by and did the whole build your lightsaber thing. my question is, would the soundboard out of that thing work for a led saber? i took some pics so every one could see the board and here's some info on it. they used 2 d batterys, and the switch is actually on the backside of the board so that would possibly be a problem. but here you go and thanks.









Thanks

[Crystal Chambers]

It just might...you may need something else to drive/resistor the LED but I'd guess its possible. I look forward to seeing this. I'm sure you can add a DPDT switch to trigger the sound board and LED driver or use a buckpuck/resistor on the LED. It looks very similar to a hasbro econo board...I'm sure someone can help you.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

This is a hasbro toy lightsaber board....Disney used the Build Your Own lightsaber kit that was out a few years a go for those. There are a few topics here covering that board, and yes, it definitely can be used in a custom saber powering a Lux type led.

[Jhadious Aran]

awesome, thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

[Jhadious Aran]

im guessing this would be the hasbro cheapo board ? so i know what im looking for through these threads lol

[Jay-gon Jinn]

im guessing this would be the hasbro cheapo board ? so i know what im looking for through these threads lol

Yes, it is the Cheapo, or "economy" board.

[cardcollector]

Hey, I used that board in my first saber. Three weeks later it broke....

I used another exact same board, and exactly three week later that one broke too...

Dunno what it is about these boards, buy I wouldn't use em...

[equinox13]

cardcollector - what voltages were you feeding it? did you resolder all the connections to be safe?

[cardcollector]

The specs were ... 4.5v, and yeah I checked why the board broke multiple times... Never did figure it out though.

Then I replaced the board with a 1999 qui- gon and haven't had a problem since.

[Novastar]

It happens, especially when "mass-produced" + el-cheapo boards are out there.

Basically, you have to think of it like "you're only as fast as your slowest runner" in a team race. And what I mean is... every part on the board (for the mostpart) has to be able to handle "X" volts or whatever in order for the ENTIRE board to be able to be considered capable of using "X" volts.

So... more specifically... if 99 of 100 parts on the board are rated to handle up to 12v... ... but that final ~ONE~ part can only handle 4v max... um... sorry, but it's quite possible that the board's limit will be stated as "4v". Even though that isn't true for 99% of the components that actually COMPRISE said board.

Further, just because you CAN get a board to run on 7.2v (people have told me "you're wrong Nova, the old school MRFX boards can handle 7.2v just fine--I'm doing it")... doesn't mean you will be able to maintain that for long.

This isn't to say that anyone is "wrong" here, or that Card made a "mistake" by feeding 4.5v into his econo-board... just saying that SOMEtimes there is a component on there that is getting overworked... and it's only a matter of time before it throws in the towel.

FINALLY (as if I haven't blithered enough)... you have a difference of battery types to figure in. 6v AAA alkaline is not always "equivalent" to 6v 18650 (via regulator). I'm not going to go into why right now, but just remember that cell size changes capacity, and cell type changes the discharge curve...