All done, exceeeeeept . . .

[JGMJacobo]

So I can use the drivers (because I am more than just the so-called "guerrilla dueler") to make things look purdy. Awesome.

Question though: What was the verdict on the 5v r? Because I both can't find one in the TCSS store (I know where I can buy them, but still), and can't get a read on it's necessity from the posts after Matt recommended it.

As far as my wiring experience tells me, and the fact that each piece is individually diagrammed, I'm led to believe the LED leads from my MR board go into the add-on driver instead of the battery. However, then I don't know what the switch is doing going into the driver . . . .

So is it the 5v potentiometer with the BATTERY headed to the Add-on driver with the switch skipping that, and the board only driving sound? In that case, I would ask what happens with the LED leads on my board.

[Matt Thorn]

So I can use the drivers (because I am more than just the so-called "guerrilla dueler") to make things look purdy. Awesome.

Question though: What was the verdict on the 5v r? Because I both can't find one in the TCSS store (I know where I can buy them, but still), and can't get a read on it's necessity from the posts after Matt recommended it.

As far as my wiring experience tells me, and the fact that each piece is individually diagrammed, I'm led to believe the LED leads from my MR board go into the add-on driver instead of the battery.

Alliterate much? The LED leads on the Force FX board are not used at all. (Only the clash sensor leads are used.)

However, then I don't know what the switch is doing going into the driver . . . .

So is it the 5v potentiometer with the BATTERY headed to the Add-on driver with the switch skipping that, and the board only driving sound? In that case, I would ask what happens with the LED leads on my board.

You're getting confused. You mean regulator, not potentiometer, no?

This is the older Corbin driver, but the principle is the same:

As you can see(?), the LED driver can handle the full 7.2V, whereas the board can only take 6V. You need a latching DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch, and you need the latching version of the driver. This lets you turn off and on two separate circuits (one for the sound, one for the LED driver) simultaneously.

Oh, and the clash sensors pictured are ones salvaged from old Hasbro toy sabers, but you can buy better, more compact sensors from Tim.

Hope this helps.

[JGMJacobo]

That explains the last of my problems, and yes, I was getting confused, haha. It'd been a long day, so the idea of adjusting voltage and adjusting resistance to fit my needs got fudged up.

That wiring diagram helps a ton. Thank you. I'm just short a second clash sensor then. That'll be a quick quarter.