A little help with the 2010 Obi wiring

[DarthKenobi]

I am using this wiring diagram. I want to add a recharge port, vibration motor and accent LED. I'm using a 2.7 Ohm 5 w resistor. I don't know if I figured that right. I'm not sure if I should utilize the LED+ or if I should put some of these in line. I've built 2 other sabers but never this much in one build. Any help would be awesome.

[cannibal869]

I've said this before, so I guess I'll just say it again

You only need ONE of the negative leads from the hasbro board to go to the PNP transistor.

This means you can actually use the other two negative leads from the hasbro board to give you two accent LEDs that won't need to be resistored. Depending on the requirements of your vibration motor, you might be able to stick in a vibration motor in place of one of these accent LEDs too.
Keep the 3 blade LEDs that came with the original toy saber - you can just desolder them and stick them back on.

Recharge port goes between the battery pack and any other electronics.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...wiring+diagram

As for your resistor calculation, it would help to know what LED you're using. It looks like your input voltage will be 5V the way you have it wired up.

-C

[DarthKenobi]

Thank you for responding, I am using R. Blue Lux III and a 7.2 V 1800Ma rechargeable battery. When I said use the LED + I was also thinking of splitting the LED -"s up. So that would work? I had wanted to hook the accent led up to one and the motor to the other like you said. Should I also split the LED+ in two for power so I don't need a resistor or am I misunderstanding? The motor is 3v 95 ma and the LED is a 5mm blue I don't know the spec on it.

[cannibal869]

You know in theory, you could just substitute a LuxV (if you can find one) in there and then all you'd have to worry about is regulating the current with a puck or something, since the driving voltage is just about spot on. Then your saber would be uber bright! It just so happens I have one lying around in royal blue...

In that case you would just run a parallel circuit setup. In theory you would need two switches - a momentary switch and a latching switch, but I have a solution for that too [dp3t]

I suspect that your motor will probably need both negatives and perhaps all 3 if you want it to be powered by the board - you'll just have to test it and see if it'll turn with just one set of accent leads.

And yes, you split the positive up.

[DarthKenobi]

Your saying I'd need a second switch for the motor right? I wouldn't if I wanted it on all the time right? I'm tiring to simulate the feel of a "living saber" as they have been described in the star wars books. Kinda silly just looking to do some thing different. And what of this Lux V of witch you speak, how would one go about securing said light??

[Skottsaber]

Quite hard. They are out of production, like all other luxeons except the Rebel

[equinox13]

i know where to get one or two... there's a shop in Akihabara that has a good selection of them still. the prices aren't that great though.

if you're ever in Tokyo that is...

[cannibal869]

Your saying I'd need a second switch for the motor right? I wouldn't if I wanted it on all the time right? I'm tiring to simulate the feel of a "living saber" as they have been described in the star wars books. Kinda silly just looking to do some thing different. And what of this Lux V of witch you speak, how would one go about securing said light??

Uh... so do you want the motor on all the time? Even when the blade is off?
Your recharge port will function as a master kill key, so at least you can save your batteries that way.

[DarthKenobi]

Uh... so do you want the motor on all the time? Even when the blade is off?
Your recharge port will function as a master kill key, so at least you can save your batteries that way.

OK So I wired it up the way we talked about but with one switch. The motor does stay on all the time like I wanted but when I power the saber down it turns off. I ended up not using the accent LED because you were right I need two of the grounds for that motor. I used the LED+ the is not used in the wiring diagram and two of the three LED-. I really only need one for the LUX III? I don't understand how the recharge is a kill switch, I don't need to wire it special? It is just naturally a kill switch and does that matter if the board it turning the motor off?