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Thread: Set screws on hilt threads?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    Get the blue Loctite, the 242. It's the removable kind.


    Don't get the red the 271, it's permanent.
    Quote Originally Posted by SportyMark View Post
    Make sure that if you use loctite you use the medium strength loctite blue, not the red, as red is almost permanent and should not be used on Aluminum (bond is stronger than aluminum. heck if you can fin the low strength (I think green?) that should work just fine.
    Looks like I kind of already beat you to the first part.
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  2. #22

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    On thing I've wondered it what would happen when you use a set screw in the gap between the thread and the body. It's roughly an 1/8th" space that is clear of threads but hidden although hitting the exact area from the outer hilt might not be so easy.

  3. #23
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    It's fine. I've done it. Go up 5/8" from the bottom of the part, if memory serves. An 8-32 screw fits with no harm to the threads.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by acerocket View Post
    Or try some teflon tape from the plumbing section of your local hardware store.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mind-gon Ohnobi View Post
    If it keeps unscrewing on you, try the teflon tape. Works great on plumbing and high-pressure hose.
    They beat me to it. Teflon is a good product, I use it on the hoses on my wielding equipment. Thats the answer you seek.

  5. #25
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    If you do use the loctite (the blue kind) every couple of minutes keep screwing and unscrewing the parts. Do this until the loctite has time to set. This will make sure that the parts won't get stuck and also allow the loctite to do its job. I have done this with the RED loctite too when I had some threads that were a little loose. (my part, not Tim's.)

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  6. #26
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    Loc-tite actually sets up from the absence of oxygen. You're not helping it cure and "do it's job" (what it's actually designed for) by unscrewing and screwing the parts back together. You're just ensuring that their will be less of a bond between the parts.

    Which might be good, if you'll want to take the parts apart later. I'm used to using Loc-tite on bearings, and other things inside machinery.



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  7. #27
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    I didn't know that bit about Loctite, J-Lo. That's pretty interesting
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  8. #28
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    I can't even tell you how many bottles of blue Loctite I went through between 1987 and 1993.

    And they were this size, 250ml:


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  9. #29

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    I hate to echo what others have said, but either go with the BLUE Loctite, or Teflon tape. I'm an avid paintballer and the unofficial smith for all of my friends' equipment, and those are my materials of choice. I can almost guarantee that we put more punishment on our paintball equipment than most would put on their lightsabers, and both hold and are removable/mailable when they need to be. If you go with Loctite, just use a little bit. If you accidentally use the red Loctite, you'll need a propane or oxyacetylene torch to get the parts apart.
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  10. #30
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    I know this is a bit of digging up an old thread, but I may have an idea that would seem to work that was not brought up in the thread. I work for a LP gas company and when we work with pipe fittings, we typically use soft-set plumbers putty. It's not a permanent bond and does the same type of job that loctite does. It's an easy clean up when it's still wet, so there's no mess when the saber is assembled and painted. Clean up on the threads if you need to remove the part is just as easy with a mild solvent on a q-tip.

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