On thing I've wondered it what would happen when you use a set screw in the gap between the thread and the body. It's roughly an 1/8th" space that is clear of threads but hidden although hitting the exact area from the outer hilt might not be so easy.
It's fine. I've done it. Go up 5/8" from the bottom of the part, if memory serves. An 8-32 screw fits with no harm to the threads.
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
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If you do use the loctite (the blue kind) every couple of minutes keep screwing and unscrewing the parts. Do this until the loctite has time to set. This will make sure that the parts won't get stuck and also allow the loctite to do its job. I have done this with the RED loctite too when I had some threads that were a little loose. (my part, not Tim's.)
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Loc-tite actually sets up from the absence of oxygen. You're not helping it cure and "do it's job" (what it's actually designed for) by unscrewing and screwing the parts back together. You're just ensuring that their will be less of a bond between the parts.
Which might be good, if you'll want to take the parts apart later. I'm used to using Loc-tite on bearings, and other things inside machinery.
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I didn't know that bit about Loctite, J-Lo. That's pretty interesting
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!
I can't even tell you how many bottles of blue Loctite I went through between 1987 and 1993.
And they were this size, 250ml:
24241.jpg
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
I hate to echo what others have said, but either go with the BLUE Loctite, or Teflon tape. I'm an avid paintballer and the unofficial smith for all of my friends' equipment, and those are my materials of choice. I can almost guarantee that we put more punishment on our paintball equipment than most would put on their lightsabers, and both hold and are removable/mailable when they need to be. If you go with Loctite, just use a little bit. If you accidentally use the red Loctite, you'll need a propane or oxyacetylene torch to get the parts apart.
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I know this is a bit of digging up an old thread, but I may have an idea that would seem to work that was not brought up in the thread. I work for a LP gas company and when we work with pipe fittings, we typically use soft-set plumbers putty. It's not a permanent bond and does the same type of job that loctite does. It's an easy clean up when it's still wet, so there's no mess when the saber is assembled and painted. Clean up on the threads if you need to remove the part is just as easy with a mild solvent on a q-tip.
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