TCSS vs Corbin vs home built blade

[Silver Serpent]

so do what you feel is right and let the force be your guide then. ^_^ i can do that. that's what i normally do with things anyway.

Unless the Force is telling you *this* is a good alternative to solder.



That's the path to the Dark Side.

[equinox13]

that's too painful to even think about... couldn't you at least use some crimp connectors?

[Crystal Chambers]

still darkside...soldering and heatshrink only. lol

by the way those are painfully enough 2 CFs in there to be used in one saber. That has to be a joke.

[Silver Serpent]

I find the pic amusing, if painful. I couldn't even imagine throwing away my money on ONE, let alone TWO CFs, if I wasn't able to solder.

It'd be like buying a brand new red Lamborghini, and then painting it blue with cans of spray paint from Wal-Mart.

[Crystal Chambers]

Actually I think it's more like using a steamroller to push them into your garage...lol

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Actually I think it's more like using a steamroller to push them into your garage...lol

QFT!

After spray painting it blue with walmart paint and then deciding you didn't like it and taking a belt sander to it...

[Skottsaber]

Nope.

There is no analagy. A CF is not to be compared to a mere Lamborghini. That is a league of its own.

[kargos]

Hey I thought I destroyed/erased all of those pics.

[Nishtol]

Well the diffuser does not give a core look or do anything for a base flare...that's corbin film.

Corbin film has NO diffuser. And can really use some poly-p (clear gift wrap) to help draw light up the blade since the corbin film tend to keep more light towards the base and provide a brighter core. It also gives a texture that to me reminds me of an older weathered saber and also a film like movie illusion like Luke's first saber.

The TCSS style blades HAVE a diffuser tube which will draw light evenly along the whole blade with the help of the some poly-p and NO CORE. Recently the addition of trans white blades have made the TCSS style blade not so appealing since the trans white blades ARE a diffuser so they draw light to the outer edge VERY well.

Base flare can result from using a 10 degree lens as well. Where as a 5 degree is better for reaching the length of the blade.

I don't recommend glue for film, diffuser, or poly-p sense I like to be able to change it later if I feel the need. But it you have kids swinging them around it might be a good idea.


So...from what you've told us you want, you really want the corbin film...not diffuser. It has a nice effect but isn't as bright overall as other blade options. The more wraps the dimmer overall but more concentrated the core. The more poly-p added to it, the more even the blade top to bottom, but less core while still keeping an old film like texture.

When looking at the Corbin Style blade(either one in TCSS), it says it works in combination with their "Driver board". However, I don't see a driver board. Do the current sound/led boards now work in place of the older circular driver board?(saw the circular board in one of the "builder" threads)

[Silver Serpent]

The driver board is old tech (note the date on the previous post was in 2010) . It got replaced a while ago. The current sound boards handle the blade effects.