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Thread: TCSS vs Corbin vs home built blade

  1. #1
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    Default TCSS vs Corbin vs home built blade

    now before i get flamed, i DID read a lot. i read the thick walled comparison thread as well as quite a few other threads on how to build them and what to do and what they look like. but i'm not to clear on the pictures and i'm not clear on the various wrapping materials. there are 5 things i have been able to get though.

    1 - if you want to be able to beat around with it, you should go with a 1" thick walled tube, which i do plan on using
    2 - a diffuser spreads the light fairly well, creates a hilt flare effect and a core effect
    3 - you want some sort of wrapping stuff like cellophane - not something i've actually seen over here in japan yet, though i haven't looked specifically for it
    4 - you need some sort of mirrored tip
    5 - gluing the wrapping material in is recommended by most

    other than that, i don't see any big difference in wrapping techniques or blade looks. the Corbin blade has a diffuser and the TCSS blade doesn't, but other than that what are the differences? i don't want to ask if they're better than doing it yourself, but are they worth it to just buy them as opposed to making your own?

    the decisions i've come to, after studying the pictures, is that i do like the core effect and i do plan on dueling someone at some time. so that gives me the conclusion of using a diffuser and a 1" thick walled blade, but i'm still lacking on the wrapping material, etc... i think i'm missing something key that will just make it click, but i don't see what it is...

  2. #2

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    Well the diffuser does not give a core look or do anything for a base flare...that's corbin film.

    Corbin film has NO diffuser. And can really use some poly-p (clear gift wrap) to help draw light up the blade since the corbin film tend to keep more light towards the base and provide a brighter core. It also gives a texture that to me reminds me of an older weathered saber and also a film like movie illusion like Luke's first saber.

    The TCSS style blades HAVE a diffuser tube which will draw light evenly along the whole blade with the help of the some poly-p and NO CORE. Recently the addition of trans white blades have made the TCSS style blade not so appealing since the trans white blades ARE a diffuser so they draw light to the outer edge VERY well.

    Base flare can result from using a 10 degree lens as well. Where as a 5 degree is better for reaching the length of the blade.

    I don't recommend glue for film, diffuser, or poly-p sense I like to be able to change it later if I feel the need. But it you have kids swinging them around it might be a good idea.


    So...from what you've told us you want, you really want the corbin film...not diffuser. It has a nice effect but isn't as bright overall as other blade options. The more wraps the dimmer overall but more concentrated the core. The more poly-p added to it, the more even the blade top to bottom, but less core while still keeping an old film like texture.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 10-06-2010 at 04:38 AM.

  3. #3
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    that makes sense. i guess i just got really confused on it. ^_^ as my boss says, we only have so many skill points (and that i'm probably lacking a few...). the corbin film is what's sold here if what i gather from google is correct, so then my only question is whether i feel confident working with a material i don't have any experience with. ^_^ oh and whether it's better to just buy the blades premade, or to make your own. i think i can assume make your own for the experience. ^_^

    as for installing the corbin film, is it just like in the tutorials? wind it up on a dowel and slide it in, then slide the dowel out? i hear there's a seam to worry about with that as well, but i don't remember seeing any pictures with that seam...

    thanks Crystal Chambers! ^_^

  4. #4

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    nope that's how the poly-p is done....corbin film is not wide enough and it's too rigid..if you roll an end and insert it, and twist and even out the roll so it straightens out as you insert it. Difficult to explain but once you get the hang of it it's not that hard. I figured it out on my own and made a few.

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    though pictures would be nice, i think i can feel what your words are saying well enough to have an idea of what to do. ^_^ thanks again!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    nope that's how the poly-p is done....corbin film is not wide enough and it's too rigid..if you roll an end and insert it, and twist and even out the roll so it straightens out as you insert it. Difficult to explain but once you get the hang of it it's not that hard. I figured it out on my own and made a few.
    I actually used to roll it on a dowel rod to insert it in the blade.....back when I used Corbin film, that is....worked fine for me. You just have to use the right size dowel, usually a smaller one than you would for polyp.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  7. #7

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    I agree, I used a dowel rod for my film as well. I do hold it in place with a couple small dabs of hot glue when I am done, but it just peels right out when I want to change it out.

  8. #8

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    I found it too rigid and not wide enough to get a good wrap around a dowel. It just wanted to unravel.

  9. #9

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    I used a 1/2" and it worked just fine....that has always been the recommended method for installing the Corbin film over the last few years, actually. but if your method works for you, then that's cool. There is no right or wrong way to do most of this saber stuff anyway.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #10
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    so do what you feel is right and let the force be your guide then. ^_^ i can do that. that's what i normally do with things anyway.

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