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Thread: Converting a Hasbro Mace force fx???

  1. #21

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    Great tutorial.

    This helped me to convert my Mace too.
    Without it, I never would have dared to do the conversion.

    BTW
    Which RGB LED did you use?
    It is a little unusual to put the resistor on the cathode, but it seems to work.

  2. #22

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    I'm not sure which RGB LED it was. I just took it straight out of one of my Ultrasabers' Dominix II sabers.

    They also put the resistor on the cathode so I simply copied them lol

    Glad it helped

    I'm tempted to make a metal internal conversion for this in the future, but we're talking ages before I actually do it. I'll post here when finished...

  3. #23

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    Hm, I hope a DX RGB will be enough to get an even lit blade.
    The brightness and colour mix of the Seoul P5 had been very disappointing.

    In my opinion the new Mace is much more durable than the MR version.
    The blade holder is comparable to the Obiwan RotS with removable blade.
    It can take some hard hits easily.
    A lightsaber duel shouldn´t be a problem for this saber, but I wouldn´t use it against a bokken or wooden staffs.

    I found a workmate, who has a lathe and milling machine at home.
    Maybe he would build me a combined LED/blade holder.

    You´ll only need a tube with a 20/22mm diameter bore with 25mm length for the LED and lens holder, the rest enlarged to 25mm.
    With a total length of 85mm it should end at the switch holder.

  4. #24
    Jedi Knight cannibal869's Avatar
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    Great tut! This will definitely come in handy...
    LOCKHEED

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Elion View Post
    Hm, I hope a DX RGB will be enough to get an even lit blade.
    The brightness and colour mix of the Seoul P5 had been very disappointing.

    In my opinion the new Mace is much more durable than the MR version.
    The blade holder is comparable to the Obiwan RotS with removable blade.
    It can take some hard hits easily.
    A lightsaber duel shouldn´t be a problem for this saber, but I wouldn´t use it against a bokken or wooden staffs.

    I found a workmate, who has a lathe and milling machine at home.
    Maybe he would build me a combined LED/blade holder.

    You´ll only need a tube with a 20/22mm diameter bore with 25mm length for the LED and lens holder, the rest enlarged to 25mm.
    With a total length of 85mm it should end at the switch holder.
    Agreed with these points entirely.

    I was thinking of possibly using rubber rings on the inside of the outer metal tube instead to take the shocks - like the guy from "Ryan vs Dorkman" does in his new line of sabers...

    But got exams and essays all the way till june so it'll have to wait

  6. #26
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    Great tutorial. I am glad to see that they got away from the 4 wire switch.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  7. #27

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    I had some small difficulties, which are hard for me to explain in english.
    But I will try


    Quote Originally Posted by Palladian View Post

    Slide the next part off too - the retaining bolts circled slide along the groove indicated by the arrow so that it does not spin around. they also hold the plastic parts underneath somewhat:


    Once the screws above have been taken off, slide the next part off - again the bolts circled slide along the red arrowed bits to stop this piece spinning round relative to the metal tube:
    This didn´t work for me at all.
    The golden ring and the grip had been like glued together.

    The grip can´t be pulled down when they´re not separated, because the bolts are blocking.

    I damaged the surface of the golden part because I held it to strong with my tongs.
    Although it has been protected with several rounds of duct tape.
    Best way to separate them is to use a knife or sharp-bladed screw driver and put it between the two parts.

    Turn the hilt and try to lever them apart by applying the knife or screw driver on different positions.
    Like this you have minimum damage.


    Quote Originally Posted by Palladian View Post
    Then pull off the gold triangle part again trying not to damage the metal work - this is difficult - again the underside of this piece will break but again it can easily be fixed with pinning:
    Maybe you don´t have to break the halfmoon part off.

    I could remove the whole upper grip by lifting and turning.

    It is a little bit of try and error to find the right movements, but it is easy when you have done it once.
    The pin could be removed later.

    I shortened the pin and put it back in it´s previous position after the conversion, because it prevents the upper grip and internal blade holder from rotating.


    Then you will need to unscrew the gold emitter part - again this was glued in place and took quite a lot of effort to unscrew - I basically cut the glue out of the groove I could see from the surface with a surgical blade, then a bit of swearing, 20 minutes and WD40 later, it finally came off (and without any damage to any part woo!)
    Here I had luck.
    No glue at all, the emitter ring could be unscrewed easily.

    So there seem to be some small differences, even between the Hasbro builts.

  8. #28
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    Addendum here. I didn't have to take off the half moon piece. I just took the emitter ring and cone shaped piece below it off. The headpiece then will separate from the rubber grip piece.

    You will have to have a custom blade holder for this. The stock Mace kit won't work. Argh.....well, I guess this is why I have a lathe and mill.....

    So much for a quick one hour conversion.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  9. #29

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    Yeah, I inquired about a new kit some time ago and one person replied telling me to use the old one and it shouldn't matter. You have way more cred here than I do so folks might listen.

  10. #30
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    The new Mace is made totally different. Too bad they didn't use the opportunity to reduce the size by 80%. They fit the electronics in an aluminum tube of 1.224" I.D. The emitter ring is now a prominent part of the design and with a new blade holder, would yield a decent blade depth.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

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