Purple RGBA blade

[Bianchi]

Are there any alternatives to the huge heatshrink used around the batteries? I don't know where I can find heatshrink this huge.

and...I'm supposed to solder the battery pack leads to the power jack, according to that diagram, then solder the "to saber" + and - wires to the jack and connect (solder) them to the rest of the saber's internal circuit...or did I get it wrong?

Also: where exactly does the resistor go (I have to resist rhe RGBA's red die, after all)?

Edit: yet: can this be used as a power plug? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21...arger-P36.aspx

[Allaerra Secura]

No, you really need to use heatshrink. It is available all over the place. You are going to have to do some searching. We normally make two positives coming off the battery pack to simplify things. One will go to the charge port and the other will go to the buckpuck (or soundboard if you had one), the negative from the battery goes to the charge port and the negative that comes off the charge port (labeled board on the diagram) goes to your buck puck. The power switch can go on either the positive or negative wire to the buck puck. Hopefully you know you use either positive OR negative for a switch? You do not use one of each. The resistor goes on the red die. Just out of curiosity, have you ever wired a regular LED or simple set up before? Because, if not, you may want to try a simpler set up first. Practice makes perfect.

[Bianchi]

I have wired as many as nine simple Lux III sabers, but none with buckpucks or Li-Ion packs or recharge sockets or the like. They were as simple as "4 AAA 6V pack + resistor + switch + LED + heatsink and optics".

Then I must solder the puck's VIN- and VIN+ to the battery pack leads, and the puck's LED+ and LED- to the led die in question.

Doesn't it make a difference if I put the resistor on the red die's negative or positive lead?

I will draw a shematics sheet for my saber and post it in a new thread for eventual corrections, soon.

[Allaerra Secura]

I have wired as many as nine simple Lux III sabers, but none with buckpucks or Li-Ion packs or recharge sockets or the like. They were as simple as "4 AAA 6V pack + resistor + switch + LED + heatsink and optics".

Then I must solder the puck's VIN- and VIN+ to the battery pack leads, and the puck's LED+ and LED- to the led die in question.

Doesn't it make a difference if I put the resistor on the red die's negative or positive lead?

I will draw a shematics sheet for my saber and post it in a new thread for eventual corrections, soon.

No the resistor can go on either side. It is probably a good idea to draw up your schematics to double check, just to be safe. No need to post a separate thread. Just post it here and we can check it for you.

[PhoenixReborn]

General wiring for buckpucks: red batt pack lead to VIN+. Black Batt pack lead to switch. Switch lead to VIN -. Other leads to LED as necessary.

[Bianchi]

Thanks, guys.

OK, here's the deal (the attached image).

I just don't know if the wiring for the PLI is right, and which resistor should I use on the PLI (I have a 7.4 V pack, but the closest resistor options are 7.2 and 8.4...)

[FenderBender]

The 7.2 would be the better option.

[Bianchi]

Thanks.

Is the PLI wiring correct, then?

And why must a kill plug be used?

[Arkhan]

kill plug protects the electronics in the saber from being damaged by the battery charger

[Skottsaber]

And is also a general battery saver while you are not using it for long periods of time.
Basically it kills the power between the battery and electronics.