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Thread: a question about making things fit

  1. #1

    Default a question about making things fit

    can i get one of the mhs rings and use it between a BH and another peice if i put in a little peice to raise the heat sync up to the right level? cause the only problem i see is that the lens holder wouldnt be pressed up to the blade stop which would make it fall out of place easier and lower some of the light transfer from LED to blade

  2. #2

    Default

    I worry that the durability of the blade holder would be compromised, as well, with fewer threads locking it into place. It would take a few shims and longer screws to keep them in place, I think.

  3. #3

    Default

    i see ur point but my intent is not to put shims in under the led but to put them in under the heat sync around the outside. plus, wouldnt it take up only like 3 or 4 threads? isnt that about the same as using 2 or 3 of the light filters tim sells?

  4. #4

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    IMHO.. durability wouldnt be an issue.

    its not much threads left out since the trim rings are NOT that wide..

    however yes, you would need an 'appropriate shim' to raise up the heatsink..
    (try some fender washers with the correct OD..and ID/hole big enough for the heatsink nub to fit through..)

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    IMHO.. durability wouldnt be an issue.

    its not much threads left out since the trim rings are NOT that wide..

    however yes, you would need an 'appropriate shim' to raise up the heatsink..
    (try some fender washers with the correct OD..and ID/hole big enough for the heatsink nub to fit through..)
    AH so it should wourk with no problem then thanks, im making a saber staff one half at a time and i wanted them to have a little more "character" with some random raised rings in there

  6. #6

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    Try a steel wavy washer.

  7. #7

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    should i worry about using thermal paste because of the gaps left by the waves?

  8. #8
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    Default

    You don't use thermal paste on the underside of the heat sink, only on the top, between it and the LED star.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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  9. #9

    Default

    i mean to use the whole saber as a heat sync. in case i decide to use a biiig watt :P

    o and side Q, has anyone made a saberstaff with chokes in it?

  10. #10

    Default

    The entire saber will still work as a heat sink because of the contact between the copper and aluminum. It's almost unheard of to burn out a 3W LED in an MHS hilt under normal operating conditions with proper sinking.

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