Advice on first saber project.

[Callas]

Hello, I'm currently working on my first saber-esque weapon. I understand the basics, but there are two additions i would really like it to have. That is why I humbly come before the Masters...

1. A basic soundboard- From lurking on the boards from the last few days, I understand the Economcy 2010 board is a good place to start. Is that the board out of the Clone Wars spring loaded lightsaber? I only need the standard blade hum, but collision dection, etc. are always a plus.

2. A way to have the blade strobe via a push-push latching switch, separate from my toggle on-off switch.

Other than that, I'm planning on running a LUX-III Cyan on a 3.6v Li-ion battery, direct drive.

Thank you all for your time and patience. I hope to one day to become a functional member of this great community, and to create some unconventional sabers in the process.

[Arkhan]

1. The 2010 Economy board that folks refer to is the one that comes in a Clone Wars box w/ Lightsaber duel DVD (at least mine were). NOT springloaded ForceAction (much inferior audio)

2. if you want a flickering blade, you'd need to use an additional LED driver board. The 2010 Economy board will "cut out" occasionally, which will momentarily shut off the blade, in sync with a glitchy sound. its not bad. Some folks don't like it.


The 2010 Economy boards provide very little current to the LED, so you'll need someway of

1) Patching into the main battery path (transistor/reed relay)
2) limiting the current to the LED from the battery path (buckpuck, power resistor)
3) turning on/off the LED circuit when the board is turned on/off

I used a reed relay, driven off the board's LED circuit, and power resistor on my daughter's saber, which used the 2010 Economy Obi-wan board.

When the momentary switch is actuated, the board powers up, sending power to the RELAY, which in turn sends power to the LED (and its resistor).

The 2010 Economy thread should have all the necessary info.

[Callas]

Thanks for the quick reply! I was actually reading the 2010 Economy thread when you responded.(I have no idea why it took three days to find that thread). One last question, what would be a cheap/easy driver for the flicker effect? I just can't seem to find the info I'm looking for. I'm pretty new to wiring electronics in general, and it's kicking my butt soundly.

[cannibal869]

please clarify what you both mean by "blade strobe via a push-push latching switch" effect and "flicker".

Do you mean "Flash on Clash" (i.e. the blade does not turn off, but rather a second accent LED die turns on to make the blade seem brighter) or are you talking about the natural main LED turn-off turn-on thing that happens when you hit something with the toy sabers?

I only ask this cause I think you're both talking about different things...

-C

[Callas]

I just want to have the blade strobe on command (to create an after-image of the blade as it moves). Yeah, I was getting the feeling we were not talking talking about the same thing. Sorry, about that. I'm picking up the lingo as I go...

As far as everything goes, i can probably do without the soundboard for now. and figure it out at a later time. But, the strobe effect takes priority...

[cannibal869]

I just want to have the blade strobe on command (to create an after-image of the blade as it moves). Yeah, I was getting the feeling we were not talking talking about the same thing. Sorry, about that. I'm picking up the lingo as I go...

As far as everything goes, i can probably do without the soundboard for now. and figure it out at a later time. But, the strobe effect takes priority...

Correct me if I'm wrong - so you want the main blade to do a strobe light effect when you push the accessory button then? Like rapid on-off-on-off? Automatic strobe effect or just a one time momentary blade off when you push the secondary switch?

-C

[Callas]

Rapid on-off. Automatic strobe effect when I use the secondary switch.

[Crystal Chambers]

Sounds to me like he's referring to the Aux button lock up effect on a strobing blade maybe....that's the closest thing I can think of.

If so then you'd want a driver board. The Econo boards might be cheap but not really so easy. The two don't often go hand in hand. Off the top of my head you're looking at $70 just for the boards and is you go with a MR board then you can add another $40.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ad...iver-P497.aspx

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ad...iver-P521.aspx

[Callas]

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by "Aux button lock up effect on a strobing blade". I'm pretty sure I understand what you mean by the "lock up" effect, as in when sabers clash, the blades flicker. But i'm not to certain about what your saying about the auxiliary button and the fact that the blade is strobing... Wouldn't a rapid on-off-on-off strobe be different then the brightening and dimming flicker of an idle saber, or the rapid flickering of a clash? Or are you saying that forcing the clash flicker would be a better alternative?

It doesn't really need to look pretty, since the saber i'm making as supposed to look like it was made at the beginning stages of saber technology. Heck, it even has a metal guide rod that runs parallel to the blade that houses the receiver at the end of it. It is in no way going to be a thing of beauty .

Thanks everybody, for your thoughts and patience.

[Callas]

Sorry to double post; but, I have an update.. I went to visit a friend today who is much more electrically inclined than I, and asked him about an LED driver. To which he responded by pulling this out of one of his many junk bins.



He quickly wired it to a three AAA battery holder and gave me a demonstration. To my delight, it had a three setting selection switch that made the connected LEDs turn on, off, and shimmer! He told me there was a chance it would would work with my LUX III and a 3.6v battery , with a few resistors. Or, there is a chance I would fry it as soon as I turn it on.. .
Either way, he said he wouldn't be upset, since he originally scavenged the piece out of a Disney light wand!

So, I'm going to remove the connected LEDs and try to wire it to my LUX III in a few days (hectic work schedule). Until then, if there's anybody who would like to drop some knowledge on me before I start. Please do so, I'd really appreciate it.. Or, if there's anybody who is going to pace a bet on the driver frying and me losing an eyebrow. That is welcome too..

Wish me luck everybody.. Because is this works, we may have found a very cheap source of basic LED drivers..