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Thread: Hilt Paint

  1. #11
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plo-Koon View Post
    thx ya'll... and is there any special paint i've got to use or...

    @jin starkiller I am a noob here and I don't know what your talking about... srry... but I use the parts given by this website if thats what ur asking...
    PVC = Plastic

    Some people build their sabers out of pvc pipes (aka plastic pipes).

    The parts sold here are metal (aka you will be painting metal).


  2. #12

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    ok thx... i am using the metal part...
    "He's an expert swordsman and a hard taskmaster."

  3. #13

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    One direction that I haven't seen mentioned here are some of the "gun finishes" out there.

    I have personally used Aluma-hyde II, which comes in spray can and takes a couple weeks to cure (and when they say "a couple weeks to cure" they mean "don't even think about touching it while it cures")

    GunKote and Duracoat are finishes that must be air brushed on.

    Once these finishes are cured, they're tougher than nails. Nothing short of media blasting will removed them.

    If someone was wanting to PAINT, as opposed to Powder-Coating, and wanted a very durable finish, I would look in those directions.

    AK-47s and Lightsabers, both so fun to build

  4. #14
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkhan View Post
    One direction that I haven't seen mentioned here are some of the "gun finishes" out there.

    I have personally used Aluma-hyde II, which comes in spray can and takes a couple weeks to cure (and when they say "a couple weeks to cure" they mean "don't even think about touching it while it cures")

    GunKote and Duracoat are finishes that must be air brushed on.

    Once these finishes are cured, they're tougher than nails. Nothing short of media blasting will removed them.

    If someone was wanting to PAINT, as opposed to Powder-Coating, and wanted a very durable finish, I would look in those directions.
    Couple weeks lmao wth... The stuff we used to redo a old riffle cured really quickly and gave the metal a nice blueish tint to the metal.

  5. #15

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    Ronan - I think I know what you're talking about but it's not a paint and can rub off if you don't cover it with a clear coat. Products like this have been used more for weathering so it looks industrial as opposed to paint.

    Wow! You are really new here if you don't know what MHS is yet.
    Modular Hilt System

    Go to the store section of the site and look for the MHS builder...funstuff!

    Makes sure that you search info and do lots of reading to avoid asking those questions that have been asked way too many times. When your questions show that you're informed but still need advice many people here will be glad to help.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronan View Post
    Couple weeks lmao wth... The stuff we used to redo a old riffle cured really quickly and gave the metal a nice blueish tint to the metal.

    blueing, parkerizing, etc are completely different tech compared to the finishes I mentioned.

    aluma-hyde takes 2 weeks to fully cure because you don't have to bake it. If you bake it, it will cure much faster.

    Again, just an option for someone who might be looking for a "paint" type finish, but want something with the durability of powder-coating.

    AK-47s and Lightsabers, both so fun to build

  7. #17

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    thx very much... my saber should be arriving in a couple days...
    "He's an expert swordsman and a hard taskmaster."

  8. #18
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkhan View Post
    blueing, parkerizing, etc are completely different tech compared to the finishes I mentioned.

    aluma-hyde takes 2 weeks to fully cure because you don't have to bake it. If you bake it, it will cure much faster.

    Again, just an option for someone who might be looking for a "paint" type finish, but want something with the durability of powder-coating.
    It's not blueing? I thought you were talking about a long long curing blueing (which i found really wierd).

    Can you shoot me some pics of the 'finished' product?

    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    Ronan - I think I know what you're talking about but it's not a paint and can rub off if you don't cover it with a clear coat. Products like this have been used more for weathering so it looks industrial as opposed to paint.
    Yes, Blueing/Parkerizing. I have seen sloth use it to 'weather' peices with great success. Personally i only used it for their intentional purposes but after seeing Sloth's work... hmmm

    It doesn't rub off, for guns you need to 'oil' it, but i have been told their are 'topcoats' that exists to protect the finish.
    Last edited by Ronan; 08-24-2010 at 09:54 AM.

  9. #19
    Board Lurker Andro's Avatar
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    Correct, there are indeed topcoats that can be used, but nothing keeps a shine like a proper oiling. So, in the end, it all depends on the finish being sought.

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