Hett Genesis "Forhunert" by LDM

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Hett Genesis "Forhunert"

Tirilia contacted me shortly after I posted my original A'Sharad Hett Genesis saber and asked if i could help him make a scaled down version. Being a pushover, I said 'yes'. This toned down version has an MR board and switch bezel rather than US 2.5 and lighted AV, but other than that it has the same quality components. All of the aluminum body is custom machined. The pommel is 100% scratch built and the rest of the parts are modified MHS. It has the classic LDM Bronzium-style weathering and this version has a Faux alligator grip. The bead work is similar to the strings on Genesis. enjoy.

Particulars:

MR Jedi board
BIN 2 Cyan Lux III
3.7V Li-ion
Custom machined hilt
2.1mm recharge/kill in pommel
BG Crystal Pommel
Bronzium Weathering with baked clear coat
Wood, glass & copper beads
Faux Alligator leather grip
genuine suede thong
Ultra edge blade

The BMT:



The Glams:







Selected builds & proofs:

[Skottsaber]

Cool, LDM!

Might I ask why you had wires going from every output on the board, instead of just soldering them all together on-board?

[ARKM]

That is one long pommel. Looks good though.

[cannibal869]

Love the grip work!!

[Crystal Chambers]

Nice thong! lol
Where is the thong?

This is a good example of making a similar yet different saber...they look related.

I'm guessing the wires Skottsaber mentioned are the multiple LED string wires. Is the question why not bridge them with a single +wire to the LED? I'm curious as well and I have a rough idea but I'd like to hear what the LDM says...do tell?

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Cool, LDM!

Might I ask why you had wires going from every output on the board, instead of just soldering them all together on-board?

Nice thong! lol
Where is the thong?

This is a good example of making a similar yet different saber...they look related.

I'm guessing the wires Skottsaber mentioned are the multiple LED string wires. Is the question why not bridge them with a single +wire to the LED? I'm curious as well and I have a rough idea but I'd like to hear what the LDM says...do tell?

A) I was weaned on Ultrasabers conversions back in the day.
B) It is an extra and (unnecessary step)
c) the most important reason...Think "accent LEDs and the ramping effect" and lets see if y'all can figure it out

[Crystal Chambers]

I did the same thing on my Mantis saber partially cuz I needed to solder my accents on to the pads so I didn't want them bridged, and I didn't need the extra space available by removing the QC and bridging it.

I was hoping maybe I missed another reason...like the ramping effect might work differently on the blade LED with the separate wires as opposed to bridged.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I did the same thing on my Mantis saber partially cuz I needed to solder my accents on to the pads so I didn't want them bridged, and I didn't need the extra space available by removing the QC and bridging it.

I was hoping maybe I missed another reason...like the ramping effect might work differently on the blade LED with the separate wires as opposed to bridged.

Unless im mistaken, each negative controls a section of the led ladder with the micro controller to initiate the ramp in sequence. Thus if you bridge your neg's you get an imperceptible increase in the overall flow resulting in a very quick fade to anything connected to the bridged neg's, almost imperceptible...

[Crystal Chambers]

I believe it's the positives but otherwise this is what I thought. But then again if you think it through for main LED purposes it's all the same either way. When one LED gets an increase in voltage in steps does it matter that it's through one wire or several. I don't think it does unless you're using accent LEDs.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

No it works the same when they are bridged or bundled. but you can ramp the accent LEDs by separating the (-)'s...