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Thread: WIP Saber Number Two Weathered

  1. #1

    Default WIP Saber Number Two Weathered

    Hello all

    This is my second saber build so far. I have finally done a little overlay work for this one. I took a 1-1/2 chrome sink tube and sanded it down to a shiny brass, which has since patinated. A piece of black leather was also added to the hilt. I had the hilt built, and buffed to a shine, but looking at it I felt that it needed something more. Ever get that feeling that it is just missing something? ...other than the electronics...still to come... So I researched weathering techniques and found that I wanted to try eastern57's olive oil techinque. It does worked wonders, but I don't know it I want it a little darker. I have not added the black o-rings back on the emitter yet because I am deciding on the coloring and it needs a clear coat. Tell me what you think so far.


    Before:


    After:
    __________________
    _Peace is a lie. There is only passion.
    ___Through passion, I gain strength.
    _____Through strength, I gain power.
    _______Through power, I gain victory.
    _________Through victory, my chains are broken.
    ___________The Force shall free me.

  2. #2

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    That looks pretty darn good. The weathering matches the brass nicely. What color is the blade going to be?

  3. #3

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    The weathering colour does blend well with the brass. I don't think brass sinktube is too hard to find and saves you a lot of work removing the chrome. Personally I'd go without the o rings on the emitter. I do think some darker tones in the grooves would make the details stand out more though. I've yet to try the olive oil yet but I think maybe some flat darker paint like charcoal would look nice in the grooves with the olive oil over it all which would blend the paint colour. In theory at least.

    I have seen some olive oil weathering done really dark and reddish but I suppose there are many factors like the type of oil, temp, time, etc.

  4. #4

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    The darker the olive oil, and the longer you bake makes a difference.

    You can also lightly spray some Krylon copper paint on the weathered pieces...makes a nice effect (it's what I did with all my Spice Mines of Kessel sabers)

    LED Saber Combat Master Instructor
    Co-Founder of Caine and Novastar's Saber Combat System (NCSCS)
    Life's short...saberplay HARD!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Midian View Post
    That looks pretty darn good. The weathering matches the brass nicely. What color is the blade going to be?
    I am thinking of using a lux III white I have lying around, with a yellow color disk.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers View Post
    The weathering colour does blend well with the brass. I don't think brass sinktube is too hard to find and saves you a lot of work removing the chrome. Personally I'd go without the o rings on the emitter. I do think some darker tones in the grooves would make the details stand out more though. I've yet to try the olive oil yet but I think maybe some flat darker paint like charcoal would look nice in the grooves with the olive oil over it all which would blend the paint colour. In theory at least.

    I have seen some olive oil weathering done really dark and reddish but I suppose there are many factors like the type of oil, temp, time, etc.
    I could not find any brass plated sink tubes in the stores around me. I had 3 chrome sinktubes, and am sort of impatient. I was thinking of painting the grooves in the main body section black. Thanks! I could have let it darken even more, but I didn't want it to be way darker than the brass.

    Quote Originally Posted by Caine Drathul View Post
    The darker the olive oil, and the longer you bake makes a difference.

    You can also lightly spray some Krylon copper paint on the weathered pieces...makes a nice effect (it's what I did with all my Spice Mines of Kessel sabers)
    Thanks for the tip.

    One question that I have is what clear coat do you guys use (the ones you bake)? I have searched and all I could come up with was the following: LDM stated "Use enamel with enamel and bake the clear coat on 350 for 3 hours." Eastern57 stated "I used clear-coat epoxy, and to really get those epoxy coats super-duper tough, you have to cure them... in the oven again..." I have a few spray on clearcoats that are fast drying, but they do not bake on... some advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
    Last edited by polarcupz; 08-16-2010 at 01:58 PM. Reason: question added
    __________________
    _Peace is a lie. There is only passion.
    ___Through passion, I gain strength.
    _____Through strength, I gain power.
    _______Through power, I gain victory.
    _________Through victory, my chains are broken.
    ___________The Force shall free me.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by polarcupz View Post
    I am thinking of using a lux III white I have lying around, with a yellow color disk.



    I could not find any brass plated sink tubes in the stores around me. I had 3 chrome sinktubes, and am sort of impatient. I was thinking of painting the grooves in the main body section black. Thanks! I could have let it darken even more, but I didn't want it to be way darker than the brass.



    Thanks for the tip.

    One question that I have is what clear coat do you guys use (the ones you bake)? I have searched and all I could come up with was the following: LDM stated "Use enamel with enamel and bake the clear coat on 350 for 3 hours." Eastern57 stated "I used clear-coat epoxy, and to really get those epoxy coats super-duper tough, you have to cure them... in the oven again..." I have a few spray on clearcoats that are fast drying, but they do not bake on... some advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
    Most clear coats will bake on...you just got to put them in the oven right after spraying them. Try 2-3 hours at 250 degrees for the curing process. Don't wait until the clear coat dries because then it won't be able to harden in the oven. I have used both flat and glossy clear coats in the past...other folks have other methods of course.

    LED Saber Combat Master Instructor
    Co-Founder of Caine and Novastar's Saber Combat System (NCSCS)
    Life's short...saberplay HARD!

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