Xwing's clear saber

**xwingband** · 06-24-2006, 12:25 PM

I'm reposting this so the discussion can be continued outside of the "gallery" threads.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by naashar

Nice, X!! I can't wait to see what you're gonna do 'bout an emitter!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Well... since I lack the ability to machine I can't do anything. If I had access to a lathe I could add lots of detail to it, but in the end it's staying as a tube. I think it would distract from what it's meant to be all about, the insides.

There are some neat things about it being clear though. In actuallity the hilt is 16" long, but you will hardly notice that fact because of these factors:
1) The 2" we normally lose in the holder... I'm not losing it IT'S CLEAR BABY![8D]
2) The 1" of resonating for the speaker is clear too... so it seems like the speaker is the end, but it isn't.

So it only seems like a 13" hilt. Take out a lot of the "bling" like the crystal and switches that the RGBY needs and it'd be quite small.

DETAILS about what's upcoming:
I have the heatsink, switches and micropucks to get. Acerocket ran into some problems machining my heatsink so the ETA is unknown on that. Switches are on order. I got the same pots Meiv4 recommended and a neat sliding switch. I ordered a sliding switch that is flush, meaning I won't have accidental button pushings.

Construction-wise I have to mount the electronics. The MR board conveniently is 1" so I'm going to make spacer rings with the left over PolyC. Then it's dremeling the holes for the switches, vents for the heatsink, and finally I'm hoping to put nylon set screws in for a lot of the parts. All that has to wait though for when all the parts come.

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**naashar** · 06-24-2006, 12:44 PM

Ok, there's that word "spacers" again. What are those, and what do they look like? Sorry for being an I.D.10T, but remember, I'm relatively new to this, Post Count notwithstanding![

]lol

Please, I seek a lesson...

You don't need to see any identification.

**xwingband** · 06-24-2006, 01:02 PM

Well... that's what I'm calling them because that's what they do. In fact they are washers that hold the object in the ID and are held in from knocking around in the tube as the OD of the washer matches the ID of the tube.

I've done that a couple of times already on this one. The steel washers I got match the 1.25" ID of the PolyC and with the threaded rod I clamped down on the battery pack. I also used a nylon washer on the crystal. The crystal fit decent in there by itself so I dremeled out indents so that it fit in the spot I had designated as the "crystal chamber" above the batteries. I then used generous amounts of hotglue because it filled the gaps and is quite good for this application, it has give yet holds it in place well enough.

While shock aborbsion is a good idea like wrapping them in bubblewrap or something else soft like foam, I think making it so that it doesn't move at all is far superior.

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**WeirdoTransvestite** · 06-24-2006, 03:33 PM

How much longer do we have to wait to see it finished? I've been wanting to see it lit up and ready since you posted the concept.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Asuka Langley Soryu: I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you.
-End of Evangelion

Gott weiss ich will kein Engel sein
-Rammstein

**xwingband** · 06-24-2006, 04:56 PM

2 Weeks I'd say is a good estimate. Depending on when the heatsink is made... don't worry, I'm the most anxious to get this done without a doubt. The crystal being in there made me giddy.[

] I have the pots and switches coming. They should arrive somewhere around tuesday. I'll get on ordering the micropucks to drive the LED today.

So it all depends on when that heatsink arrives. I need it to route the wires and to make placement of the switches.

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**WeirdoTransvestite** · 06-24-2006, 06:40 PM

Ooh, heatsink. Forgot about that, don't want your saber melting and bending like a wet noodle in the middle of a duel now do you?

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Asuka Langley Soryu: I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you. I'll kill you.
-End of Evangelion

Gott weiss ich will kein Engel sein
-Rammstein

**xwingband** · 06-24-2006, 07:11 PM

More like I don't want that relativly 'spensive little LED to burn out. That would be another one to buy and oh god... rewiring 6 terminals on that piss-ant sized emitter (It's not in a star form, and the emitter form it is has 6 solder tabs all in like 1/4" of each other).

PolyC can take 250 degrees celsius before it melts so that's not an issue. PolyC is good stuff.[

] I'm not sure I'd have the heart to duel with it. I have other sabers for that.[

] This one is the "Ooooo!" saber, even though I'm sure it will hold up well to dueling. I've already given the hilt some whacks to make sure the crystal was in there good.

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**jtsteph** · 06-24-2006, 08:49 PM

Very cool. I would bash it around. Besides if it breaks, you can then UPGRADE it!

<== I see I'm a Padawan now..how cute!

I must fight this sickness.....

**xwingband** · 06-26-2006, 02:56 PM

I don't have the heart... that's why I have others.[

]

Here's a quick update:

The socket cap screws are temporary as I will use set screws, but I wanted to show it clamped in there. I got the switches, but I'm not going to do more work on this as I still have a few parts coming and I got my MHS stuff today.[

]

Is that not cool or what? I can't wait to have it all in there. Don't worry either I have good stuff to come it's just going to be about another saber.[

]

Also... naashar, you see what I meant as a spacer? I used the same PolyC that I used for the blade holder and pommel cap to bridge the gap between tubes and hold the MR board.

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