Perhaps you should consider another switch as the illumi are quite long and may need a bezel, this will mess with the asthetic you're going for.
A shoto is a toughie as your cram fu needs to very strong.
Perhaps you should consider another switch as the illumi are quite long and may need a bezel, this will mess with the asthetic you're going for.
A shoto is a toughie as your cram fu needs to very strong.
Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"
Anakin: " I thought I already did"
Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"
Sometimes, you don't even realize you're being consumed by the Dark... Until it's too late.
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"Yeah, if I had Skotts face I'd hit it too" ~ Fenderbender
"You didn't buy a toy saber just to break it. You bought an economy sound card with a really complicated wrapping scheme." ~ Silver Serpent
You're under the assumption I'm buying the switch from the TCSS store. I'd reveal where I'm buying the switch from, but my understanding is that I need to be hush-hush about it, so I will respect the wishes of the council.
The switch I'm getting is 37mm long, from top of button to end of leads. I'm pretty sure it'll fit, especially so if it's in the pommel.
Sometimes, you don't even realize you're being consumed by the Dark... Until it's too late.
Good luck, i have looked for those type of switches and the only place i found them was overseas (as VV does) If you can find one that works good on ya, hope it works out for you...
And yes, thank you for not attempting to take business away from Tim, if you DO find one that works, make sure to let Tim know by emailing him at sales@thecustomsabershop.com
Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings
"Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~
That was what orignally happened with me too, could only find them overseas. But searching "vandal switch" helps a lot.
The ones in the store have a bezel with a diameter of 16mm, correct?
Sometimes, you don't even realize you're being consumed by the Dark... Until it's too late.
just for some perspective with batt/SB packs and MHS
the batts in this pack are sunk into the pommel .5"
and without a speaker fit into a 3"DF section like this (with an end of a film canister as an insulation cap)
but I had to get creative with recharge and switch placement.
keep in mind also, when putting an AV switch close to the BH in a straight design like that ... that the heatsink rests
at the bottom of the threads of the piece your BH screws into. so it takes up a smidge of room (10mm). that isnt much most times... but when you're planning cram it can be.
Last edited by sithlordfaust; 08-08-2010 at 02:57 PM.
Thanks for the advice, I'm sure this will help me when I'm ready to actually build this thing.
One LAST update for my diagram.
If there's any measurements missing, please point them out.
Sometimes, you don't even realize you're being consumed by the Dark... Until it's too late.
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