Switch Wiring Diagram for MR board with 4 wire switch

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Here is a wiring diagram for the MR boards with the 4 wire switch like the Mace Windu board. You can use any latching SPDT or DPDT switch. In the diagram I used the DPDT illuminated switch as an example. You could use the other side of the switch too, but make sure you don't mix the connections. Example: Use C1, NO1 and NC1 or C2, NO2 and NC2 but don't mix the two.

[cannibal869]

Cool thanks for posting this!

[Jedi-Loreen]

Here is a wiring diagram for the MR boards with the 4 wire switch like the Mace Windu board. You can use any latching SPDT or DPDT switch. In the diagram I used the DPDT illuminated switch as an example. You could use the other side of the switch too, but make sure you don't mix the connections. Example: Use C1, NO1 and NC1 or C2, NO2 and NC2 but don't mix the two.

There's a typo in your original post.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Typo? What typo? hehe Thanks J-Lo. That could have made it very confusing.

[Impa]

Hey, new to the saber scene currently working on my first saber. All of this information has been great, but i seem to have hit a small snag. I used this diagram to wire up my DPDT Momentary switch. Currently when i hold it down it works perfectly but when i let go of the switch the saber doesn't stay on. I am guessing i havn't wired a common? It isn't opening / closing right? Do i have to strap NC2/C2? I am using a MR Mace windu board. Everything works fine as i have said, just won't stay "on" unless i hold down the switch button. Again thx so much for the wiring diagrams, has taken me well over a week of reading/studying before i wanted to start throwing questions out. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Also. My switch won't illuminate, so i am guessing i need to connect the LED terminals on the switch to my existing leads from the LED? Correct? Also will i need to throw a 2.2 ohm resistor on the pos? I was reading it doesn't mater if it's on the neg or pos, just wanted to be sure that it is 'required' before i run it to the LED, don't want to fry anything.

cheers.

[ecko]

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, But I believe the MR boards need a "Latching" Switch not a Momentary "Switch", hence why you have to hold the switch down.

~S~

[equinox13]

yes you need a latching switch, not a momentary. if you bought a latching, try pushing it down just a bit further - they can act like a momentary if you only press them in to the first click.

as for the LED in the switch, yes you need to wire it in as well - a 2.2 ohm resistor will fry it though. use the resistor calculator in the store selecting the color switch you have and your chosen power supply - it should be something like 18, 82, 220, etc... you're right on that it doesn't matter which side of the LED it's on.

or, if you post your color and battery voltage we'll tell you what resistor you need.