pololu board troubles

[Ulstergeki]

Alrighty, i wired up my stuff today, i got a Vandle switch that is countersinked but it was only momentary, so in my infinite wisdom, i got a pololu board to make it into latching, but i seem to have a problem, when i use it, it latches like it is supposed to, but is very dim, anyone else had this trouble? thanks
UG

[Arkhan]

The AV switch is very dim?

So is mine. I'm not driving the LED for the AV off the pololu (but I suppose I could). I'm driving it off another wire from the MR board.

I've had my AV switch hooked to 9v battery (momentarily), down to 1.5V and it has never been very bright. Mine is a 16mm.

[Ulstergeki]

No, not the AV switch, the LED is about half the brightness or less, so im not sure what the problem is, so i think im tossing the pololu out and just using my economy board.

[Arkhan]

strange, the pololu should handle as much MA as you can throw at it (10 amps max)


you're just using the pololu to run the LED straight off the battery, with a momentary switch? Do you have the pololu grounded to the battery?

[Sunrider]

Check the wiring of the pololu board then look elsewhere.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

what else do you have in your set up? buck puck? resistor? LED type? a little more may be needed to help you troubleshoot you problem.

[Skottsaber]

Isn't there one board that is for high current (i.e Direct drive), and one for lower currents (i.e MR boards)?

[Ulstergeki]

i have a souel p4 green, 3.3 5w resistor, 4 aa battery pack, nickle plated momentary switch, ( non lighted AV switch) and the pololu is the LV version which should hold up to 7 V, but isnt 4aa putting out just 6v?
Like i said earlier, i think im going to just skip the pololu and go to radioshack and get the couple items i need to use the hasbro 2010 soundboard.

UG

[Skottsaber]

Is there any particular reason you need to use the small momentary AV?

[Arkhan]

Isn't there one board that is for high current (i.e Direct drive), and one for lower currents (i.e MR boards)?

There is indeed.

However, the vMIN for both boards is within the range here. Last time I looked at the SV version, it would still work fine at the voltages that most sabers run at.

The LV does have a better tolerance for low voltage, but less tolerance for higher voltages.