Glue is definitely not my first choice, solder might work better! Thanks for the inspiration!
Glue is definitely not my first choice, solder might work better! Thanks for the inspiration!
Last edited by Shadar Al'Niende; 06-21-2010 at 06:20 AM.
Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings
"Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~
I would still use somethign 'more' maybe a set screw on each end?
@ CC-
umm..neight I guess?
the bras rods are sectional..(more spacers to set my height for the modular pieces)..
however there are threded rods through the hole thing..sorta 'clamping' it all together.
Shadar - from what I can tell, having threaded parts will enable you to tighten in on your crystal and make it more durable.
Xl - gotcha.
So the threaded rods are screwed into the top and bottom and the tubes hold the sectioning spacers in between in place.
I can usually figure this stuff out but I guess I flaked for a moment this time. Not enough sleep this weekend. I guessed hollow tubes so you can hide your wires.
I think i understand, you mean by threading the washers and using externally threaded rod?Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers
Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings
"Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~
more or less.
I actually took a bit further..
my 'threaded rods' have a acorn nut on one end.. (so I can just use an extension and a socket to tighten/loosen).. and in the 'top'..what I refer to as the led bucket... where the rods go into, are threaded...and not 'through holes'
IMHO..the 'beauty' of these are that it uses the heatsink and/or the speaker mount to secure itself in the saber.
Since those still get sandwiched and locked down as normal.
and you 'are' right.. the 3rd brass rod/tube does not have a threaded rod in it.. its 'falsey' so I run wires to where I need to go.
the 'crystal stems/holders' are also step drilled they can house a 4mm led chrome bezel (from Radio Shack...but change out the crap led they come with) and secure underneath it with the nut on the thread part of the led bezel as normal.. so you can mount and power your led for the crystal.. on either/both ends really.
You could tap the washers, but you also want to be sure it doesn't unscrew itself. Depends on how you intend to make sections, space required, reducing nuts, etc
More importantly....Basically take this principal of using tubes to space discs along threaded rods, tap and thread anything you need to.
If you want to hide wires you can use the tube as you did or use a hollow threaded rod. Then it can give you support and conceal wires.
you wont get much room in a hollow threaded rod in the sizes "I" used.. and you cant really get MUCH bigger. unless you want a tiny crystal..(and I mean very skinny)
you have a hole area/platform of only 1.24 +/-
and kind fo stem/holder portion for holding the crytsals is (Id say at least .40-.50 in width)
that leaves only (roughly) .375 on each side for tubes/rods..etc
unless you want FAT sections.. (I believe you are calling these washers?..although these are machined sections of Aluminum) you dont have enough 'meat' to thread a hole on both sides.. if you are talking about a through hole that is threaded.. it also leads to problems when tighten things down as things can get kinked and not 'level'..
but others may have better results.. I found this way worked best for me..
sorta like those old 'toys' of an animal or something that hads it body and limbs made of plastic..on a little platform.. held together by sting.. but when you push the 'button/floor' on the bottom of the platform..it tightened all the stings.. and the animal stood up straight...
the newer versions of these xCores... <--- which was really just a tognue in cheek/joke name because of all theother 'core' names flying around at the time =)
Xl - thanks for the heads up on hollow threaded rods.
The inner diameter for my CC section is only 1 and1/8th inch.
I'm in the process of figuring out which sized parts to order.
With 5 26 gauge wires to get passed the chamber, they might not be hidden in the end.
That actually crossed my mind as well.
I can run 4-6 TINY wires in my false.. more like on the 4 side when its all together.. since alignment is not perfect when tight.
also the hole where the 'brass rods' go is counter sunk.. so they do not 'slip'..with a smaller through hole for the threaded rod.
but you could do two.. side by side. maybe even wrap soem copper wire around them.
its up to you.. 1.125 is not alot of room..lol.. but Im sure you can figure something out..
just use smaller threaded rod and smaller brass tube.. (they also have copper and aluminum in same sizes or close)
try a 6-32 rod..or even a 4-40 if you have to.. give it a tes for strength.. and whatever brass tube fits over it nicley.
Here' the pommel crystal chamber I did for Brass Saber 21:
That's two style 7 mps inserts, 4 4-40 screws, 4 nylon spacers for 4-40 screws, a purple acrylic crystal from the grab bag crystals in the store, and and mps insert c-clip.
This had to be assembled and installed in the pommel at the same time:
I dropped in the bottom MPS insert then installed the c-clip....inserted the 4-40 screws through the insert's holes, then slipped the nylon spacers over the screws....added the crystal (it had to be ground and cut quite a bit to fit) and then added the inner insert and tightened the screws:
I lit it up using a high-brightness white led mounted in the front of the speaker using a modified MHS speaker mount:
nothing too fancy, but it worked.
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