Redemption, MHS first design

[HAVOK]

OK, seeing my last go at this was a flop, this saber will be called
Redemption.

All MHS saber parts, and then the second version would be PC or Anodized. There is a local shop that does anodizing.

Anyway on to the design and parts!



Open to discussion

[Darth Xusia]

I like the design. Two things though, your Covertek is upside down, and you should turn off the thread hints for a cleaner look.
I personally wouldn't use a visible blade retention screw. I would use a set screw, but that's just me.

[desert jedi]

I definitely like the powder coating, it will be a nice saber when you get it done. I also agree with Darth Xusia about the set screw...I just got my first hilt finished and I went with a flush set screw. Unless you need to get the blade out fast, the flush screw looks better, and less likely to snag on clothes.

[Tahm]

I use a thumb screw in my saber, similar to how you have it. I personally like the look of thumb screws. They always seemed like power/length adjusters to me. (they don't work for all sabers but I think it's fine for this one) However I agree if you do have the clip there the screw may catch on your clothes/robes. I might move it to the bottom side of the handle. ( if you keep the thumb screw where it is) great design post pics when you get it!

[Invisas1979]

I'd personally go for a set screw in this Havok, give it a sleek look. PC or Anodizing, I like anodizing over PC but it'll be easier to get the definition from PC and generally easier as not many people anodize small parts. You may have to wait till someone does big batch and then add your parts too it.

Flat black pc and a brass obi tpm style overlay would look great with this design.

Maybe see it Tim can do a brass ish pc for the tip of the blade holder.

Oh so many possibilities.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

On top of Invisas' advice, Tim can PC that for around $50 anywhere else you go will probably be more expensive and Tim does TOP work... just sayin.

[xl97]

as mentioned, turn OFF thread hints.. that is for people who do NOT understand how the parts fit with each other..

also, the hight up the blade ret. screw is the better it secuers.. so dont so it too low..

set screw of thumscrew.. your choice.. you can switch at any time of course..

I think if you PC the parts in the builder..you will get the prices for that as well in your estimate..

[Sloda Foade]

Havok, I like this design especially as it is almost the same as mine except for the blade holder. I would move the blare retention screw in line with the switch as previously said, or use a set screw. Do you plan to use the gear as a resonator chamber as I did?
The black anodising would look cool, but it scratches very easily, but that might be acceptible if you are going for the old beat up look.